Login    Register

Rear Struts overhaul.

Ask your technical questions here.

Moderators: WR 1mposter, The Swede, Megaman, danr55, WR1 Bro

  • Author
    Message

Rear Struts overhaul.

Postby Carl Curtis » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:34 pm

I recently decided to remove my rear struts and overhaul them.Although they werent knocking they were sticking slightly and would jump up a small amount sometimes as if someone was getting out the car.Micktype WR1 sent me a link from scoobynet which outlines the removal and refitting sequence quite well.
After viewing this and various other threads and links it was time to get stuck in.
Get the car jacked up using a good quality trolley jack under the rear diff.When its high enough pop some axle stands somewhere secure under the body.I also put some wedge shaped chocs under the front wheels fro added security.
Before starting the rear seats must be removed.This is a simple process,two blots hold the bottom seat in position located in the footwells and after you remove this four more bolts hold the back part of the seat on along where the seat belts straps are bolted on.Seat is then hooked on to clips at the rear which you have to push the seat over to remove.When both are removed you can then gain access to top mounting points for both struts.
There are 3 nuts which secure the top of the struts to the car body,these are a pig to get at and it takes ages to unscrew them as you can only turn the ratchet in small increments on a couple of them.Unscrew all of them and leave the easiest one to get at right on the final threads so that the strut doesnt drop to the ground after you have removed the bottom fixing bolts.
Image
I have read that the next step is to attach some coil spring compressors to the springs.I found that my hubs dropped down sufficiently enough to allow the struts to come out quite easily without compressing the springs.
Image
Above is the strut ready for removal.
If you have ever taken the time to look behind the wheel hub you might have noticed that the bolts holding the strut to the hub are in a particularly inaccesable position for removing them.I found that the bolts on mine were rusted solid and wouldn,t budge.Tried large impact wrench,heating them up and soaking in penetrating fluid ,all to no avail.
The only way to remove them was to make a slit in the nuts.This in it self wasnt easy because you just cant get a decent cutting disc in there due to space constraints.My answer was to break out the Dremel.I ended ordering some special cutting discs which took a few days to arrive.They are only 0.75mm thick and 50mm in dia,perfect for this job.As soon as I had put a slit in each nut and gave them a whack with a cold chisel to finally split the nut they came out easily.
Image
Couldnt get a decent enough picture of the bottom bolt only the top one.
Image
Bolts removed and strut free from hub.
Image
Remember the top mounting nut is stopping the strut from falling out after you have seperated the strut from the hub.Take the weight of the strut in one hand then reach into the car with the other and unscrew the top nut.The strut will now drop down and you can remove it through the wheel arch.
Strut is now ready for dissasembly.
Very important!!At this stage you must now use the coil spring compressors as shown.Coils could do some serious damage to you or even your car if you attempt to dissasemble without them.
Image
After springs are compressed (only slightly is enough) you will note that there are two nuts which hold the whole thing together.One on the top and one on the bottom.Remove the top one first which I think is a 17mm socket.You might find that the damper behind the black plastic dust shield may try to turn when you attempt this.

Image
Mine did.I put a rag round the damper to prevent scratching it and clamped it with some large grips.This stopped the damper from spinning and the nut came off easily.You can now seperate the spring from the strut.The top mount comes off with the black dust shield attached to it.It is also now safe to remove the coil spring compressors from the spring.
The damper is now only attached to the strut with a 14mm nut at the bottom.Again my nuts were rusted a little and wouldnt come off.The problem is that the bottom of the damper has a shouldered collar on the stud and after you have undone the nut a little it to spins in the strut housing and if you nut is rusted it wont come off.My solution was to make a cut in the stud a couple of millimetres deep so you can hold it with a screwdriver whilst turning the nut with a spanner.Penetrating fluid wouldnt go amiss.Once this is done the damper can be pulled out of the body of the strut.
Image
Image
For some reason I couldnt get pictures of down inside the strut but you will find that Subaru will have put a yellow grease in there.The grease in mine was a strange consistency,hard to describe.Bit like hard butter.Not greasy at all and you will immediately see why they stick or knock.
At this stage you need to remove the crappy Subaru grease.Best tool for this is one of your missus's small flexible spatula's.After you have removed the majority spray some WD40 or similar all around the inside and poke a clean rag in there to remove all the remnants.
I did some research into the best types of grease to put back in the struts and concluded a good LP lithium based bearing grease is good.I used Castrol High temp bearing grease for mine.
The grease needs to go between the two internal shoulders inside the strut.One is directly below the top seal,about 15mm long and the nesxt below that about 75mm long.I used a steel 12" ruler to apply the grease in to the shoulders. and smoothed it off reasonably neatly before re inserting the damper.Dont suppose you have to be too neat about this but I took my time and ensured there wern't any air pockets or gaps in the grease.In total I reckon I put about 2 golf balls worth of grease back in there.
Taking care not to damage the seal slide the damper back in the strut until the threaded stud at the bottom pokes out and put the nut back on a tighten it up.You should notice hoe nicely the damper moves up and down in the strut now.
Put the spring compressors back on the spring and you can start to re assemble everything.Again when I tried to tighten up the top nut on the strut the damper spun.Just hold again with some grips and the nut tightens up easily.Remove the coil spring compressors.
All that left to do is push the strut back up inside the wheel well and put one of the top nuts on loosely so that the strut is hanging there on its own and re attach the bottom of the strut to the rear of the hub.
Image
Of course I needed to get new lower mounting bolts for mine.After going to my local Dealer they told me that they would cost £6 ea.Theres 4 of them,so after picking myself up from the floor I decided to source my own bolts.Another headache as they are M14 with a 1.25mm pitch and not easy to get hold of ,especially if you want them plated.Finally tracked some down and bought a minimum supply of 20 with nuts for £8.Happy with that as I can use the new ones for the fronts if I decide to remove them.
When I got to the stripping down stage I decided I couldn't bear to put them back on without getting the strut housings and spring powder coated.I have an account through my business with a local powder coaters so this was a no brainer.Got the struts done in white and the springs in yellow.Not sure why I chose those colours but I am happy with them.
Image
Image
So after putting everything back together I couldn't wait to go out for a test drive.I noticed a difference as soon as I sat in the drivers seat and started the engine,it definately felt better( or was I dreaming).Anyway on the road the back end feels like I would have expected it to when it was new.No sticking at all and feels plush even for a car with stiff suspension.
In conclusion anyone who is pissed off with there knocking or sticking rear struts should have a go at this before biting the bullet and going down the after market route.Its dirt cheap and apart from being a bit of a ball ache its very rewarding when you complete it and put it back on the road.The key is to plan everything in advance make sure you have the right tools and the rest is easy,even for non mechanically minded folk.
I hope this is of use to some people and would appreciate any feedback.
Carl.
PS I took a few more photos whilst messing around with the camera.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Carl Curtis
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:51 pm
Location: Coventry

Postby Carl Curtis » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:41 pm

Forgot to thank Mega for his excellent instuctions of how to use photobucket.
Cheers :lol:
Carl Curtis
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:51 pm
Location: Coventry

Postby Steveyk » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:15 pm

Nice work sir, I think this should be a 'Sticky' in the tech help section.
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people.
User avatar
Steveyk
 
Posts: 698
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 5:24 am
Location: Stoke-on-Trent

Postby Megaman » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:14 am

Sticky'd post, no probs on the photobucket guide :)
Image
User avatar
Megaman
Fords Number 1 Fan
 
Posts: 4206
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 11:40 pm
Location: Leeds

Postby Micktype WR1 » Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:31 pm

Great job done Carl. Cheers for the mention.
Could you tell us WHERE to buy those bolts. Clearly your supplier would save anyone a smal packet.
Did you have any pics showing the old waxy grease ? From the ones a saw, it's no wonder the grease does absolutely nothing.

Why oh why didnt Subaru do something when they had all these claims under warranty that clearly cost them a lot of dosh ? They could have gone to the shock manufacturers and insisted on lithium based grease be packed in there.
User avatar
Micktype WR1
 
Posts: 1053
Joined: Tue May 29, 2007 2:26 pm
Location: Worcestershire

Postby SteveS » Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:59 pm

Cracking write up Carl, well done and glad you have it sorted. Just the number plates to go now eh!!!! :wave: :bow: :woohoo:
User avatar
SteveS
 
Posts: 661
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:54 pm
Location: Burbage Hinckley Leicestershire

Postby W1 KRB » Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:27 pm

One of the best and most useful threads I've read so far, thanks mate
W1 KRB
 
Posts: 641
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:50 pm
Location: Bedford

G

Postby R1ynb » Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:36 pm

Great write up.!! [/u]
R1ynb
 
Posts: 80
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2011 10:35 pm

Postby chiroman » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:17 pm

Did you get rear geometry setup when all complete?

This a link for fitting grease nipples to rear struts http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYiP4DG_OQU
chiroman
 
Posts: 231
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:16 pm
Location: South Herts

Postby Carl Curtis » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:37 pm

chiroman wrote:Did you get rear geometry setup when all complete?

No mate I didnt.The struts obviously dont have any adjustment on them,so when overhauled they went straight back on.I suppose to be 100% I should go and get the 4 wheels laser alligned but everything was OK before I started and dont see any reason for any missalignment when putting them back on.
Will keep you posted on that one.
On a seperate note Mick mentioned the warranty issue with Subaru and the quality of grease used in the original builds.I have to strongly agree that the grease fitted is appalling and cant believe that Subaru couldnt have forseen that the stuff was not going to hold up.Maybe they got a 'good price' on a job lot of grease at the time!!!
I mentioned in my original post how 'non grease like' the stuff was that came out.Its hard to descibe its consistency unless you actually have it between your fingers.
I reckon if left for long enough the whole strut and damper could seize.Its a pity that,to the best of my knowledge,no one independent did a diagnosis of some description back in the day.
Anyway thats all water under the bridge for now.Hope someone is inspired to do there own struts soon.
Carl.
Carl Curtis
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:51 pm
Location: Coventry

Postby Carl Curtis » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 pm

Oh,and was going to mention the fitting of grease nipples.
I think that if you only do a modest mileage as I suspect most owners do the fitting of grease nipples is probably a waste of time IMO.
As long as you pack the strut with good quality grease and with care as I detailed the shocks should be good for many years.
Carl Curtis
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:51 pm
Location: Coventry

Postby chiroman » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:17 pm

I mentioned the geometry as I replaced the rear struts on my WR1 a couple of yrs ago and there was quite a lot of clearance in the main fixing bolts so needed to reset the camber.
chiroman
 
Posts: 231
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:16 pm
Location: South Herts

Postby MUNK » Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:10 pm

thats a blinding rite up !!! :)
some serious money saving advice there..if your mechanically minded
"you can do it if you special brew it!!"
User avatar
MUNK
 
Posts: 171
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:26 pm
Location: .......on the run!

Postby Carl Curtis » Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:35 pm

MUNK wrote:thats a blinding rite up !!! :)
some serious money saving advice there..if your mechanically minded

This has got me thinking about people that drive high performance motors.I have a mental picture of an owner of a high performance car knowing how every nut and bolt works and understands the intricate sucks and blows etc.
I get the impression from your post Munk that you are not mechanically minded.
If some people arent mechanically minded does this stop them from understanding how engines and other bits and bobs actually work.
Please dont misunderstand me,I am not having a go at such people just trying to understand at what point they cease to understand whats going on under the bonnet.
I would reiterate that I dont feel that removing the rear struts and overhauling them isnt that complicated.
Hope I havent opened up a can of worms there.
Carl
Carl Curtis
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:51 pm
Location: Coventry

Postby WR1 Bro » Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:44 pm

Great thread.

I cease to understand what goes on underneath the bonnet when I open the bonnet. I'm certain some people will find this thread fantastic, others like myself can appreciate and respect your effort but we are best leaving the spanners in Halfords.
User avatar
WR1 Bro
Site Admin
 
Posts: 20279
Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 8:54 am
Location: If skinny, ugly and Scouse was best, then JohnMc would be a porn star legend.

Postby Carl Curtis » Fri Feb 24, 2012 7:24 pm

WR1 Bro wrote:Great thread.

I cease to understand what goes on underneath the bonnet when I open the bonnet. I'm certain some people will find this thread fantastic, others like myself can appreciate and respect your effort but we are best leaving the spanners in Halfords.

Did you find the bonnet release catch on your own or did someone show you. :wink:
Carl Curtis
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:51 pm
Location: Coventry

Postby MUNK » Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:46 am

Carl Curtis wrote:
MUNK wrote:thats a blinding rite up !!! :)
some serious money saving advice there..if your mechanically minded

This has got me thinking about people that drive high performance motors.I have a mental picture of an owner of a high performance car knowing how every nut and bolt works and understands the intricate sucks and blows etc.
I get the impression from your post Munk that you are not mechanically minded.
If some people arent mechanically minded does this stop them from understanding how engines and other bits and bobs actually work.
Please dont misunderstand me,I am not having a go at such people just trying to understand at what point they cease to understand whats going on under the bonnet.
I would reiterate that I dont feel that removing the rear struts and overhauling them isnt that complicated.
Hope I havent opened up a can of worms there.
Carl




Totally the opposite mate Hgv mechanic by trade.... Was a good guide that's all...
"you can do it if you special brew it!!"
User avatar
MUNK
 
Posts: 171
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:26 pm
Location: .......on the run!

Postby BIG"E" » Sat Feb 25, 2012 11:58 am

MUNK wrote:Totally the opposite mate Hgv mechanic by trade.... Was a good guide that's all...


But I keep telling you there is no need to double the clutch on a scoob,

you can also go more than 40mph on a A road. :lol:
BIG"E"
 
Posts: 296
Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:06 pm
Location: East Sussex

Postby Cozzy 481 » Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:17 am

Great Thread Carl.
It will be interesting if you could update the thread if the knocking reoccurs in time. Ive had friends who have gone down this route only to discover it reoccurs again in a year. Ive been told its a design fault with the strut. Im not trying to piss on your cornflakes here mate and I hope seriously hope they last for you. Love the WR1 Yellow Colours you done them in. An update as you use the car would be great as a source of reference.
(Maybe thats why Im always skint and I bet you AINT!!)
Cozzy
PS; Wheels look Mint!
Bmw 320ci msport
Bmw 323i tour msport
Subaru Impreza wrx sti 03 (new)
wr1 481 (New)
Bmw 530i m sport (Champane Edition)
Shogun (06) SORRY
Bmw 330i m sport
Bought WR1 481 back.(SOLD)
Subaru Tribeca B9 SE7 2007.
Cozzy 481
 
Posts: 498
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 7:11 am
Location: West Wickham Kent

Postby Carl Curtis » Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:11 pm

Cozzy 481 wrote:Great Thread Carl.
It will be interesting if you could update the thread if the knocking reoccurs in time. Ive had friends who have gone down this route only to discover it reoccurs again in a year. Ive been told its a design fault with the strut. Im not trying to piss on your cornflakes here mate and I hope seriously hope they last for you. Love the WR1 Yellow Colours you done them in. An update as you use the car would be great as a source of reference.
(Maybe thats why Im always skint and I bet you AINT!!)
Cozzy
PS; Wheels look Mint!

Thanks for your thoughts Cozzy.Much appreciated.If you read the thread again you will notice mine weren't actually knocking in the first place.More like slightly sticking.It was more of an exploritory mission for me really and to give others a guideline hopefully.
All the best
Carl
PS to re - itterate if you have a problem with them dont hesitate to have a go yourself they really are quite easy.
Carl Curtis
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:51 pm
Location: Coventry

Postby Cozzy 481 » Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:06 am

:thumb:
Top Man Carl.
Bmw 320ci msport
Bmw 323i tour msport
Subaru Impreza wrx sti 03 (new)
wr1 481 (New)
Bmw 530i m sport (Champane Edition)
Shogun (06) SORRY
Bmw 330i m sport
Bought WR1 481 back.(SOLD)
Subaru Tribeca B9 SE7 2007.
Cozzy 481
 
Posts: 498
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 7:11 am
Location: West Wickham Kent

Postby Paulb022 » Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:49 pm

Great Technical write up Carl!!
I did my rear struts this weekend, the ns was getting pretty knocky. Followed your write up closely, and had the same issue removing the 14mm nut on the end of the strut. I took cut mine off with a dremmel by cutting a groove down the side of the nut then splaying out with a steel block to release thread bind. The double D drive was damaged but held firm when re-tightening.
Luckily my wheel brace in the boot located on the bolt end of the two 19mm bolts securing the strut to hub so locked the nut with a ring spanner then loosened the bolts using my wheel brace and socket extension outside the car to get more leverage!!
So far so good, no knocking and feels much better!!!
Will update if it comes back.

Will be removing my blitz nur spec exhaust this week to replace with original. Will put up for sale once off, anybody interested in the blitz exhaust?

Paul
Paulb022
 
Posts: 54
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:31 pm
Location: Cheltenham

Return to Tech Help

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests