Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:55 amDo up pipes make much difference to performance? what kind of power gains we talking if any?
Page 2 of 2
Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:55 amPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:11 amNot really, Gangsta is talking about a true one off
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:53 amThanks very much for your help mate.
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:03 ami know where there is blitz nur spec ehaust, only done 300 miles going 
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:18 amMy mate has one of them fitted to his car, i feel its a bit to loud the blitz. Worth a look depending on price, is it a full 3 inch system.
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:21 amwr1500 wrote:My mate has one of them fitted to his car, i feel its a bit to loud the blitz. Worth a look depending on price, is it a full 3 inch system.
he said it cost 580, so i take it that must be for a full system, think he is looking for 380
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:24 amwr1500 wrote:My mate has one of them fitted to his car, i feel its a bit to loud the blitz. Worth a look depending on price, is it a full 3 inch system.
3inch apart from where it joins the cat (2.5inch)
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:33 amis that what you have got on stu?
does this exhaust involve a remap?
does this exhaust involve a remap?
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:44 amstijoy wrote:is that what you have got on stu?
does this exhaust involve a remap?
Yes I have the Nur Spec R. I personally love the BOOM BOOM but we do only drive our WR1 for weekend fun. I get in other Scoobies and think they are awfully quiet.
Remap - no need since you aren't removing the Cat.
Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 11:55 amSurely this exhaust wont make much difference performance wise, being 3 inch bore it is still restricted by the 2 and 1/2 inch downpipe.
Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:23 pmThats not quite how it works WR1500 unfortunately or we would all be running around with 5" diameter exhausts!
Imagine your car is pumping out 320 BHP of exhaust gas. It goes through some small diameter headers, into a larger diameter up pipe, spins the exhaust turbine, goes down a 3" downpipe and through a bloody great cat, tapers for a short while to 2.5" then back to 3" before exiting the car. You can see that the main restriction will be the cat.
Larger diameter pipework means the capability to flow more gas, but if you think back to physics it will also slow the gas speed down. This is very important pre turbo but also gas speed, pressure,etc after the turbo has an effect on scavenging the cylinders.
At this 320 BHP level, the 2 1/2" section is more than adequate to flow the amount of gas required at a decent speed. If you put a 3" on all you are doing is putting the same amount of gas through a hole that was already fit for purpose when it was a bit smaller. i.e you gain nothing.
At say 370 BHP, the 2 1/2" section is a bit restrictive. put a 3" system on at this point and you may well see a 10 BHP+ rise.
A 3" will see you up to 500 BHP+ before you need to think about anything bigger, unless you like to tell people in pubs you have a 3 1/2" sysyem so your car must be faster.
All the cat back systems wether 2 1/2" or 3" only give you a very small power increase, and this is just because the pipework is straighter and they are better made. If you want noticeable power increase you should look at the decat and remap route.
If you have no plans to change your turbo in the future, save money and put a 2 1/2" system such as the NUR spec on. If however you have further plans, then you would be wise at this stage to get a 3" system and save yourself money in the long term.
Imagine your car is pumping out 320 BHP of exhaust gas. It goes through some small diameter headers, into a larger diameter up pipe, spins the exhaust turbine, goes down a 3" downpipe and through a bloody great cat, tapers for a short while to 2.5" then back to 3" before exiting the car. You can see that the main restriction will be the cat.
Larger diameter pipework means the capability to flow more gas, but if you think back to physics it will also slow the gas speed down. This is very important pre turbo but also gas speed, pressure,etc after the turbo has an effect on scavenging the cylinders.
At this 320 BHP level, the 2 1/2" section is more than adequate to flow the amount of gas required at a decent speed. If you put a 3" on all you are doing is putting the same amount of gas through a hole that was already fit for purpose when it was a bit smaller. i.e you gain nothing.
At say 370 BHP, the 2 1/2" section is a bit restrictive. put a 3" system on at this point and you may well see a 10 BHP+ rise.
A 3" will see you up to 500 BHP+ before you need to think about anything bigger, unless you like to tell people in pubs you have a 3 1/2" sysyem so your car must be faster.
All the cat back systems wether 2 1/2" or 3" only give you a very small power increase, and this is just because the pipework is straighter and they are better made. If you want noticeable power increase you should look at the decat and remap route.
If you have no plans to change your turbo in the future, save money and put a 2 1/2" system such as the NUR spec on. If however you have further plans, then you would be wise at this stage to get a 3" system and save yourself money in the long term.
Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:40 pmThanks mate, your a great help. I find this exhaust business hard to get my head round i dont what to buy something that I'll end up replacing, or buy something then not get a re-map same then my car go pop, you know what i mean!
Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:56 pmas simple as i can make it-
Any system that fits up to your existing downpipe will be 2 1/2", will not require a remap, will not blow your engine, will make a small handful of BHP improvement. This is the one to go for if you are just after a bit of noise.
Any 3" thro' system will require a downpipe to suit. you can have a decat downpipe for the biggest gains, or a hi flow one for a small amount less. Both of these options you should really have a remap, if you dont it may still be all right if you use some NF and install a knocklink to give you a warning.
If you are eco-friendly, dont have a friendly MOT man and dont want the hassle of changing your downpipe at MOT time take the hi flow cat option. If you want max power and have a MOT man that takes a back hander save yourself a lot of money and get a decat one.
If you are planning on seriouslly hiking power in the lomg term, forget the 2 1/2" option.
Final option is youcan have your existing downpipe modified with a 3" end if you so desire, although as stated above this is not going to gain you anything.
Any system that fits up to your existing downpipe will be 2 1/2", will not require a remap, will not blow your engine, will make a small handful of BHP improvement. This is the one to go for if you are just after a bit of noise.
Any 3" thro' system will require a downpipe to suit. you can have a decat downpipe for the biggest gains, or a hi flow one for a small amount less. Both of these options you should really have a remap, if you dont it may still be all right if you use some NF and install a knocklink to give you a warning.
If you are eco-friendly, dont have a friendly MOT man and dont want the hassle of changing your downpipe at MOT time take the hi flow cat option. If you want max power and have a MOT man that takes a back hander save yourself a lot of money and get a decat one.
If you are planning on seriouslly hiking power in the lomg term, forget the 2 1/2" option.
Final option is youcan have your existing downpipe modified with a 3" end if you so desire, although as stated above this is not going to gain you anything.
Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:42 amThanks very much, again! that is a great help!
Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:44 amWe do try 
I agree, sorting out exhausts and systems etc........is exhausting.
When you sort out which way to go, there will be minimal power diferences between the systems (I.e a Milltek cat back will give very much the same power as a Blits NUR spec cat back)
Just base your decision on looks, sound that you like, quality, and price.
I agree, sorting out exhausts and systems etc........is exhausting.
When you sort out which way to go, there will be minimal power diferences between the systems (I.e a Milltek cat back will give very much the same power as a Blits NUR spec cat back)
Just base your decision on looks, sound that you like, quality, and price.
Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:08 ami like the look of the TSL Firestorm, they look well good. Not heard one mind, i dont what a loud exhaust, my missus will want a divorce.
Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:17 pmmarky mark wrote:
At this level an uppipe will make no diference, other than to cause your turbo to spool up slower. They are normally onlt fitted with headers anyway, and the standard headers and uppipe are more than adequate to flow 350 BHP. Leave alone till they become restrictive i.e if you are thinking of putting a different turbo on.
I would disagree with this bit. I've been running on ported OEM headers with a matched up-pipe and the car feels like its gained some good torque. The combination of headers and up-pipe have lowered the spool of the turbo by 200 - 300 rpm. I'm now hitting 1 BAR at around 2,700 rpm in 5th gear. So I've got more torque over more of the rev range.
The car feels more alive off turbo as well around the 2,500 to 3,000 rpm area. Personally, I would keep the standard exhaust and fit some ported headers and the matched up-pipe. The whole lot will cost you about
Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:20 pmI was talking about an aftermarket up pipe Anders, which are almost all of a significantly bigger diameter than a o.e one, hence slower spool.
The ported ones (along with headers obviously) work very well indeed and for a moderately tuned car is by far the best option.
I have done a few sets for people and all have said they notice a significantly better spool up.
The ported ones (along with headers obviously) work very well indeed and for a moderately tuned car is by far the best option.
I have done a few sets for people and all have said they notice a significantly better spool up.
Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:52 pmAh, ok! I've heard the ported OEM's match well to a TD05-18G. I plan to fit one of these next year, when the warranty is out. I'll probably fit one of Harvey Smiths FMIC's for about
Posted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 10:17 amaps system is the daddy - we just fitted one to our WR1
3.5" straight through. i think the pro drive one was 2 and 1/4 inch
3.5" straight through. i think the pro drive one was 2 and 1/4 inch
Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:07 am> aps system is the daddy
Excellent, post the dyno sheet so we can see how good it is.
Excellent, post the dyno sheet so we can see how good it is.
Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:57 pmosaka wrote:aps system is the daddy - we just fitted one to our WR1
3.5" straight through. i think the pro drive one was 2 and 1/4 inch
Any problems with the turbo blowing the hoses off with the 3.5" system?
Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:31 amrunning sweet as a nut!!
here it is - running 376bhp and approx 370ft llbs of torque
1/4 mile in 11 secs
They mapped is safe for every day use - could have done it to 430bhp, but would have caused problems to the internals.
after christmas is the next stage with the stroker, ecu etc which will easily boost it up to 550bhp plus....
the car sounds nuts and there is no lag what so ever... it goes like a supercharged car with boost from the get go!!
here it is - running 376bhp and approx 370ft llbs of torque
1/4 mile in 11 secs
They mapped is safe for every day use - could have done it to 430bhp, but would have caused problems to the internals.
after christmas is the next stage with the stroker, ecu etc which will easily boost it up to 550bhp plus....
the car sounds nuts and there is no lag what so ever... it goes like a supercharged car with boost from the get go!!
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:00 pmLooks good. 
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:04 pm[quote="Anders_WR1"]Ah, ok! I've heard the ported OEM's match well to a TD05-18G. I plan to fit one of these next year, when the warranty is out. I'll probably fit one of Harvey Smiths FMIC's for about
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:06 pmosaka wrote:running sweet as a nut!!
here it is - running 376bhp and approx 370ft llbs of torque
1/4 mile in 11 secs
They mapped is safe for every day use - could have done it to 430bhp, but would have caused problems to the internals.
after christmas is the next stage with the stroker, ecu etc which will easily boost it up to 550bhp plus....
the car sounds nuts and there is no lag what so ever... it goes like a supercharged car with boost from the get go!!
Give us a run down on what you have had done
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:38 amthis is it so far:
Engine:
GFB Stealth FX BOV
Buddyclub Positive charge unit
Banner Unibull 4 point battery
STI Earthing kit
Walbro Fuel Pump
HKS Turbo timer
HKS Iridium Plugs
HKS Guages In Triple Carbon Pod
APS 3.5" turbo back exhaust
APS header 4-2-1 Header
Blitz SBCI Boost Controller
APS Induction kit Induction Kit
GFB 3 Pulley Kit inc belts
Power Enterprise Timing Belt
Power Enterprise Oil Filter
Re-map ECU
Power Enterprise Injectors
APS SR40 Turbo
APS Top Mount intercooler
Fuelcat
Suspension:
Tein Type flex suspension & EDFC controller
Osaka Carbon Fibre Strut Bar
Whiteline Suspension Parts (everything they list in the book for the car exc anti roll bars)
Brakes:
Brembo 4 pots
EBC Red Stuff ceramic pads
EBC Turbo Groove Discs
Exterior Styling:
Osaka STI8 Carbon Spoiler
Carbon fibre FQ style Diffuser
Custom Carbon Fibre Ganador Style Mirrors
Chragespeed full kit inc wings
STI Mud flaps
Interior Styling:
Carbon Fibre Custom Guage Pod
Misc Mods:
PIAA Lighting
AES HID conversion
PIAA Wipers
PIAA Sports Horn
GFB 6 Speed Short Shifter
Tein Bonnet damper kit
Osaka front carbon strut bar
Cusco rear strut bar
Wheels:
Trafficstar RTS in custome gold 18
Engine:
GFB Stealth FX BOV
Buddyclub Positive charge unit
Banner Unibull 4 point battery
STI Earthing kit
Walbro Fuel Pump
HKS Turbo timer
HKS Iridium Plugs
HKS Guages In Triple Carbon Pod
APS 3.5" turbo back exhaust
APS header 4-2-1 Header
Blitz SBCI Boost Controller
APS Induction kit Induction Kit
GFB 3 Pulley Kit inc belts
Power Enterprise Timing Belt
Power Enterprise Oil Filter
Re-map ECU
Power Enterprise Injectors
APS SR40 Turbo
APS Top Mount intercooler
Fuelcat
Suspension:
Tein Type flex suspension & EDFC controller
Osaka Carbon Fibre Strut Bar
Whiteline Suspension Parts (everything they list in the book for the car exc anti roll bars)
Brakes:
Brembo 4 pots
EBC Red Stuff ceramic pads
EBC Turbo Groove Discs
Exterior Styling:
Osaka STI8 Carbon Spoiler
Carbon fibre FQ style Diffuser
Custom Carbon Fibre Ganador Style Mirrors
Chragespeed full kit inc wings
STI Mud flaps
Interior Styling:
Carbon Fibre Custom Guage Pod
Misc Mods:
PIAA Lighting
AES HID conversion
PIAA Wipers
PIAA Sports Horn
GFB 6 Speed Short Shifter
Tein Bonnet damper kit
Osaka front carbon strut bar
Cusco rear strut bar
Wheels:
Trafficstar RTS in custome gold 18
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:42 amSpike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:osaka wrote:aps system is the daddy - we just fitted one to our WR1
3.5" straight through. i think the pro drive one was 2 and 1/4 inch
Any problems with the turbo blowing the hoses off with the 3.5" system?
no problems with this or anything else so far - touch wood!!
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 5:29 pmosaka wrote:Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:osaka wrote:aps system is the daddy - we just fitted one to our WR1
3.5" straight through. i think the pro drive one was 2 and 1/4 inch
Any problems with the turbo blowing the hoses off with the 3.5" system?
no problems with this or anything else so far - touch wood!!
Not anymore for me since fitting of Samco hoses
Osaka, have similar engine stuff to you, APS stuff, running virtually identical power etc