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clutch query

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clutch query

Postby Megaman » Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:55 pm

Hiya,

My clutch biting point comes in when the clutch is about 90% released - i.e. at the top. Does this mean the clutch is about to go as most of the other cars i drive have the bite point either really low or mid range. I was told by the local garage that the clutches last 20k on most scoobys but they might just be trying to get me to spend another 1k for the sake of it on a replacement. If it is on its way out i think i will be looking for a decent uprated one... any suggestions?

Also on the same topic, when a clutch "goes" / fails... what happens... is it stuck in gear or out of gear... hopefully it would be the latter!!

Cheers

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Postby narked » Fri Jun 20, 2008 11:21 pm

Smoke ,lots of smoke.

I had a forester do 80,000 miles before the clutch started to go.I felt a pop in it one day and two days later clouds of smoke and what a smell.

Fook me it took a week to get rid of smell. :shock:

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Postby Gee Wr1 » Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:59 am

Put the car in 4th gear at standstill then give it some revs & release the clutch slowly, if the car stalls there's life left in the clutch if the clutch is worn out it will slip & not stall.
Very basic way of telling if the clutch is going.

Also it would slip when under hard acceleration, you would see the revs going up but the car wouldn't accelerate .

The clutch should last well over 20k if you drive properly & are not doing drag strip style launches all the time.
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Postby WR 1mposter » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:15 am

Gee Wr1 wrote:Put the car in 4th gear at standstill then give it some revs & release the clutch slowly, if the car stalls there's life left in the clutch if the clutch is worn out it will slip & not stall.
Very basic way of telling if the clutch is going.

Also it would slip when under hard acceleration, you would see the revs going up but the car wouldn't accelerate .

The clutch should last well over 20k if you drive properly & are not doing drag strip style launches all the time.


Agreed Gee ours has 37k on standard clutch. :lol:
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Postby danr55 » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:34 am

sounds like it's on its way out if the biting point is that high.

If you're going to replace it and only not go totally power mod bonkers then get an AP organic. I had one for sale, but Woza got the good deal on that one, sorry!
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Postby marky mark » Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:13 pm

Your local garage are clueless. I would find another one as they seem to continually mis advise you wether it's for financial reasons or just simply because they don't have an idea.

Maybe they think you are a bit stupid? Did they know you had a ford before? PMSL. :P

Its a hydraulic clutch, Bleed it out and see if it changes.

If it does not slip, don't change it, it could last forever. Once it starts slipping get it changed ASAP before it knacks your flywheel..

They can last from anywhere between 10K if you really abuse it, up to 70K+
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Postby WR 1mposter » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:11 pm

marky mark wrote:
Maybe they think you are a bit stupid? Did they know you had a ford before? PMSL. :P

+


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: thats twice now mark steady on
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Postby jd » Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:53 am

A good upgrade is either the Exedy or AP organic clutches.

But neither will last too long with drag launches. :oops:
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Postby ScoobyDan » Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:17 am

My clutch used to have a very high biting point and my local dealer were quite happy to tell me it was on its last legs and couldn't be adjusted. :evil:
Anyway I spoke to Adam at Autotecnica about replacing it and he dissappeared into the footwell with a couple of spanners and adjusted the pedal. That was 18 months and 14k ago, the clutch has now done over 40k. It might be worth trying this on yours and bleeding it of course.
However if the car has been driven pretty hard it isn't unusual for clutches to only last 20k :shock:
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Postby Megaman » Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:43 am

Thanks for the useful advice guys (and the digs Marky Mark!! ;))... My problem is I have no car history from the previous owner, no idea if the last owner booted it all over the place doing 4sec launches. I dont treat the clutch badly but if it was something that is going to cost a bomb to fix as it may break other components on the way out... then naturally i want to try and mitigate that..

Will try the 4th gear thing today and see what happens.. :)
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Postby marky mark » Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:59 am

Megaman wrote:Thanks for the useful advice guys (and the digs Marky Mark!! ;))


No problems whatsoever...on both counts. :D
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Postby WR1 WOZA » Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:28 pm

Just changed my clutch for an Ap organic bought from Dan ! Cheers m8
Anyway original clutch lasted 47k so cant complain although i drive hard i tend not to luanch from standing as i think will kill clutches much sooner !
:lol:
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Postby danr55 » Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:42 am

WR1 WOZA wrote:Just changed my clutch for an Ap organic bought from Dan ! Cheers m8
Anyway original clutch lasted 47k so cant complain although i drive hard i tend not to luanch from standing as i think will kill clutches much sooner !
:lol:


Cool, how you getting on with it? :D
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Postby jd » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:10 am

danr55 wrote:
WR1 WOZA wrote:i tend not to luanch from standing as i think will kill clutches much sooner !
:lol:


planning an exedy twin plate for mine in the near future :D
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Postby danr55 » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:32 am

jd wrote:
danr55 wrote:
WR1 WOZA wrote:i tend not to luanch from standing as i think will kill clutches much sooner !
:lol:


planning an exedy twin plate for mine in the near future :D


that's what I have. Nightmare for the first few days to get used to it, and you have to wait for it to settle. Once that's happened it's great to use though :D
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Postby jd » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:33 am

and it can take some serious abuse, didnt think my exedy organic would last too long launching at 6000rpm. :lol:
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Postby Megaman » Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:37 am

Well i tried the 4th gear test and stalled the car... clutch must be okay for now even though the biting point is high up... touch wood :)
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