WR1 Owners Club

Hello mate,

Where can I buy some stainless steel wire for wrapping my downpipe? What diameter do I need?

Cheers

Anders

Demon tweeks will do you stainless steel ties

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:Demon tweeks will do you stainless steel ties

I bought a pack of ties from Amber Performance for the ends, but I want to do a proper job with wire every 2"

You get the best job by using ties and lockwire. Ties on there own you cannot get them tight enough and eventually the wrap comes loose so use a few ties (they are expensive) to hold it in place and then lockwire it.

You won't get a good job doing the wiring with pliers either, you need some proper lockwiring pliers. When you are ready give me a shout and i will lend you mine.

Demon tweeks are fecking expensive. speak to the guys at
http://www.proven-products.co.uk/ , they will supply you with cooltek lagging, stainless ties, and lockwire.

In fact the link to cooltek is on there.

marky mark wrote:You get the best job by using ties and lockwire. Ties on there own you cannot get them tight enough and eventually the wrap comes loose so use a few ties (they are expensive) to hold it in place and then lockwire it.

You won't get a good job doing the wiring with pliers either, you need some proper lockwiring pliers. When you are ready give me a shout and i will lend you mine.

Demon tweeks are fecking expensive. speak to the guys at
http://www.proven-products.co.uk/ , they will supply you with cooltek lagging, stainless ties, and lockwire.

In fact the link to cooltek is on there.

Cheers. I'll order some lockwire today.

Are these the pliers?

http://www.international-tool.co.uk/pro ... asp?id=200

I'm tempted to buy some at this price to add to my growing toolkit!

Anders

Yep, those are the kiddies.

The pliers arrived today along with some 1mm lockwire.



The instructions look like summit a heroin user might read, lol

clamp the plier ends around your wire
Slidte the central barrel forward to lock it
Then just hold the knurled end and pull. the pliers will rotate twisting the wire.

There is a nack, you will break the wire occasionally due to doing it up to tight.

I'll give it a shot this weekend. Should have bought 2" wide heat wrap...I thought 1" would be wide enough, but looking at it now it should have been 2". Live and learn!

Yep, you won't be able to overlap enough with 1", it will ultimately mean it does not last as long as the 2" stuff as it becomes baggier and slides around a bit.

2" wrap. with a 1" overlap when you wrap is ideal. You are going to be stuck with a 1/2" overlap.

Just ordered a 2" x 50' roll of DEI wrap. Not too cheap this stuff...£67 delivered

Anders_WR1 wrote:Just ordered a 2" x 50' roll of DEI wrap. Not too cheap this stuff...£67 delivered

Got a roll of wrap left over from last time.

Anders thought you had my o.e headers ported, why wrap them when they had heatshields ?

WR 1mpostor (aka number 1 moderator) wrote:

Anders_WR1 wrote:Just ordered a 2" x 50' roll of DEI wrap. Not too cheap this stuff...£67 delivered

Got a roll of wrap left over from last time.

Anders thought you had my o.e headers ported, why wrap them when they had heatshields ?

Damn, I ordered the wrap last night

The wrap is for the Hayward and Scott downpipe. I heard it's not a bad idea to wrap it, to help the gases flow or summit. I also bought a turbo blanket for the hot side of the turbo, so I can ditch the stock heatshield.

Anders

It has mininal or no effect at all on performance wrapping post turbo (apart from a bit less heat in the engine bay. Gas speed is much less of an issue post turbo as it is pre turbo for obvious reasons, as long as there are no restrictions and the pipework is of a large enough diameter to flow the volume required.

It might give 10bhp placebo effect!

Here's my attempt at wrapping. I broke one piece of wire, so not too bad for a first effort. The 1" wide roll lasted further than I was expecting...the 2" roll didn't turn up. I ordered it from Amber Performance, who seem slow to deliver

Thats pretty neat lockwiring for a first time Anders.

I normally chop them off longer than that, then bend them over on itself, so you cant cut your hands.

I didn't realise that when you heat wrap that you had to lock wire it.... Thinking about it, I don't know how I thought it stayed in place! Maybe cable ties!!!! This is another great example to me how interesting this site can be when people post threads about what they are doing and then pics of what they have done.

Good job Anders. I've learnt something from something so simple.

I thought heat wrap was like a metal gauze (sp?) and thus thought you bent it around the pipe and hence it would stay in place. What a pleb.

WR1 Bro wrote:I didn't realise that when you heat wrap that you had to lock wire it.... Thinking about it, I don't know how I thought it stayed in place! Maybe cable ties!!!! This is another great example to me how interesting this site can be when people post threads about what they are doing and then pics of what they have done.

Good job Anders. I've learnt something from something so simple.

I thought heat wrap was like a metal gauze (sp?) and thus thought you bent it around the pipe and hence it would stay in place. What a pleb.

I think the guy that wrapped my headers on my old STI thought the same as you Stu.

Very neat and tidy Anders top marks

Cheers for the feedback lads. I enjoy doing this stuff, where I can.

I had the MD321H, Hayward & scott and clutch fitted today at API, but I won't be getting it mapped for another week or so. API left the wastegate flapper disconnected, until I get is mapped to stop the turbo spooling to dangerous levels.

Even with the wastegate fully open, I'm convinced the turbo response is better than the VF35. On the old turbo, if I had my foot off the loud pedal and the boost gauge needle was showing vacum (right down the bottom on the gauge), it would always take a second or so to reach 0 on the gauge when I pressed the loud pedal again. With the new turbo, it happens a split second after touching the accelerator.

I'm looking forward to mapping and to see what happens powerwise, given that I'm still running ported OEM headers. I thought I'd give them a go before spending £500 on tubular headers.

Anders

does that mean there`s a vf35 going?

also, where did you get the turbo blanket from?

Cheers

Tiny

Anders_WR1 wrote:Cheers for the feedback lads. I enjoy doing this stuff, where I can.

I had the MD321H, Hayward & scott and clutch fitted today at API, but I won't be getting it mapped for another week or so. API left the wastegate flapper disconnected, until I get is mapped to stop the turbo spooling to dangerous levels.

Even with the wastegate fully open, I'm convinced the turbo response is better than the VF35. On the old turbo, if I had my foot off the loud pedal and the boost gauge needle was showing vacum (right down the bottom on the gauge), it would always take a second or so to reach 0 on the gauge when I pressed the loud pedal again. With the new turbo, it happens a split second after touching the accelerator.

I'm looking forward to mapping and to see what happens powerwise, given that I'm still running ported OEM headers. I thought I'd give them a go before spending £500 on tubular headers.

Anders

Sounds about right from what I have heard of the H - instant spool up. It will transform the 1 into a very driveable and rapid car.

Stick with the OEM headers

littl`un wrote:does that mean there`s a vf35 going?

also, where did you get the turbo blanket from?

Cheers

Tiny

Hello mate, yep the VF35 is going - sold already pending payment today.

I bought the blanket from Owen Developments:

http://www.owendevelopments.co.uk/produ ... 22&imgId=b

I'd also recommend their hose clamps, quality kit!

http://www.owendevelopments.co.uk/produ ... p?prodId=2

Anders

dynamix wrote:

Anders_WR1 wrote:Cheers for the feedback lads. I enjoy doing this stuff, where I can.

I had the MD321H, Hayward & scott and clutch fitted today at API, but I won't be getting it mapped for another week or so. API left the wastegate flapper disconnected, until I get is mapped to stop the turbo spooling to dangerous levels.

Even with the wastegate fully open, I'm convinced the turbo response is better than the VF35. On the old turbo, if I had my foot off the loud pedal and the boost gauge needle was showing vacum (right down the bottom on the gauge), it would always take a second or so to reach 0 on the gauge when I pressed the loud pedal again. With the new turbo, it happens a split second after touching the accelerator.

I'm looking forward to mapping and to see what happens powerwise, given that I'm still running ported OEM headers. I thought I'd give them a go before spending £500 on tubular headers.

Anders

Sounds about right from what I have heard of the H - instant spool up. It will transform the 1 into a very driveable and rapid car.

Stick with the OEM headers

Harvey Smith, who ported the headers is convinced they won't be a problem to 400bhp. He's running 420 something on a set of his headers apparently.

I've just ordered a resonated section for the Hayward & Scott. It's too loud for daily use - it will only be a matter of time before being stopped by the plod and the drone in the cabin is quite bad on the motorway.

Should be delivered on Friday with a bit of luck. Need to fit it before mapping.

Anders

Looking forward to seeing you car at the RR.

WR1 Bro wrote:Looking forward to seeing you car at the RR.

The RR day is still on then?

shame the turbo`s already gone but cheers for the link to the turbo blankets

littl`un wrote:shame the turbo`s already gone but cheers for the link to the turbo blankets

Keep an eye in the parts for sale section on ScoobyNet. There are always some floating around on there.

I sold mine for £300 delivered with all the oil and water pipes.

Anders

I'd like to thank Rich at Powerstation for a great map today. It's super smooth and the MD321H is super responsive. The responce is very similar to the VF35 - 4th gear sitting around 35mph / 2,500 rpm, foot down and it starts to pull! I was expecting it to be a bit gutless below 3K, but there's no loss of driveability at all. I'm reaching 1 BAR at 3,100 rpm in 5th gear. Also noticed that I hit 1.4 BAR in 2nd gear now , which it never used to.

Power was 372bhp, not sure on the torque because the RR graph was lost when Andy went on to map an Evo VI. I think it was 430nm ish. Boost was 1.4 BAR midrange with 1.3 to the redline. The car pulls hard to the redline now

The neutral position switch was playing up again, so I'll have to see when it was replaced under warranty. I'm sure it was less than 12 months ago, which seems a bit crap. This will be effecting power and torque slightly.

Powerstation have a great new shop upstairs with loads of hard to find bits like the lateral links that Chris & Rosey had fitted, Subaru and STI clothes etc. Photos of the shop below. They are having an open day on Sat 22nd March, with press and magazines turning up (and some well dressed 'ladies' ). Might be worth adding it in events?

Looking forward to our RR day to see how the Dyno Dynamics compares.

Anders