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Moderators: WR 1mposter, The Swede, Megaman, danr55, WR1 Bro
loss of power- faulty fuel/air sensor
Hmmm, have had intermittent loss of power changing WR1 into WRX
  for a while. Really odd fault- engine still sounds tip top but the 'go' just isnt there. Car is in with Subaru at the mo but they are having an interesting time finding the fault??? Bosch brain didnt pick up any faults for some reason.
I ran my mates Worth brain through it though and it suggested the VVT and swirl sensors werent operating which would suggest the fuel/air sensor may be off and tripping the other sensors. Anyone else had this problem??  ________ SUZUKI RG250 SPECIFICATIONS Last edited by thegunners on Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Had the vvt sensor changed a while back, but there was a stutter/miss though.
2007 BMW M5
2004 Petter Solberg STi
I presume you have already tried resetting the ECU to see if that makes a difference?
Last edited by thegunners on Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
FECK me thats seems a bit steep!!!!! a bad day on the slopes is better than a good day in the office
Last edited by thegunners on Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
that is steep £50 part for £250 labour, how much per hour labour do they charge ?2007 BMW M5
2004 Petter Solberg STi
Last edited by thegunners on Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Assuming you mean Air flow sensor, They have ripped you off.
They have sold you the housing as well, which you don't actually need. Go back and tell them to shove it. If JP is Roland Rat, them I am Errol the Hamster... His number 1 fan.
A Very expensive one Regs
Geoff
I'd have thought a MAFF would be NO more more than £100inc vat, and £300 labour, feck me, I'm sorry but unless they are stoopid and spent hours on the car diagnosing the fault then you have just had your pants pulled down!!!!
I'd go back and have a word with the greedy ol sods!!!! a bad day on the slopes is better than a good day in the office
Could be the neutral position switch in the gear box. The tip of the switch (which is plastic
) rubs on some metal part in the gear box and wears it down over the years.
If it wears too much, the switch goes faulty and the ECU thinks the car's in neutral, even though your in gear. The ECU turns off the VVT when the car's in neutral, so you can have a loss of power if the switch goes faulty, because the VVT is deactivited when your driving, or intermittant as mine was. Mine was fixed by Powerstation during a remap. They thinned the washer between the switch and the gearbox to make the switch protrude deeper in to the gearbox  .
I asked the dealer to replace the switch under warranty, which they did. If the dealer quotes some mad time for changing the switch, tell them Powerstation managed it in 45 minutes! Anders Engine: FMIC with K&N CAIK, Oil Catch Can & MD321H turbo. Next mod: TBD
Brakes: Turbo Groove Discs, Pagid RS29's & Braided Hoses. Suspension: Whiteline front and rear ARB's, ALK
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