WR1 Owners Club

Hi all, my nearside brakes front and rear are getting very low but the offside still has loads of pad left, has anyone had this problem before. Thanks. Mark.

Mark WR1 102 wrote:Hi all, my nearside brakes front and rear are getting very low but the offside still has loads of pad left, has anyone had this problem before. Thanks. Mark.

I assume you mean offside as the outer or outboard pad on the front and rear? I would first remove the pads and make sure both pistons in both calipers are moving freely and not seized. When the pads where last changed did you or someone else bleed both nipples on the calipers front and rear? I know on single piston calipers the piston side pad does where slightly more, and i mean very slightly.

I would be more inclined to suspect a seized piston on one side, but very unlikly on both front and back at the same time? i could be wrong?

Brakes not bled properly?

Does the car pull to one side when braking hard? if so thats indicative of seized caliper sliders or pistons. ( sliders not used on the one )

Does the car suffer with any wheel wobble when braking, again points to uneven braking / disc run out etc.

Is the brake pedal firm?

My pads are worn evenly on both sides, pistons can be moved back in by thumb pressure.

Hope this helps

Hi Gary, yes very helpful thank you, yes the offside front and rear pads you can see when the wheels are still on both low, Not sure if they were bled properly last time they were changed cause I've only had the car since 22nd December last year.

Theres no pulling to one side when hard braking, No wheel wobble and the brake peddle is firm, is that still pointing to not being bled properly ? And thanks again

Mark WR1 102 wrote:Hi Gary, yes very helpful thank you, yes the offside front and rear pads you can see when the wheels are still on both low, Not sure if they were bled properly last time they were changed cause I've only had the car since 22nd December last year.

Theres no pulling to one side when hard braking, No wheel wobble and the brake peddle is firm, is that still pointing to not being bled properly ? And thanks again

My first inspection would be, remove the pads and check the brake caliper pistons have free movement either side, check all four corners at the same time. Also check the pads have free movement within the caliper,if all is free i would change the pads on all four corners, then bleed the system. As you state the pads are low, so due a change anyway. Make sure all the calipers are clean, remove any brake dust build within the caliper, make sure everything is clean before fitting the pads, use some copper ease on reassembly, I use a product called Permatex extreme ceramic brake parts lubricant, i find this a better product than copper ease, this will keep everything free and moving ( dont apply grease to the pad surface though )

Gary75 wrote:

Mark WR1 102 wrote:Hi Gary, yes very helpful thank you, yes the offside front and rear pads you can see when the wheels are still on both low, Not sure if they were bled properly last time they were changed cause I've only had the car since 22nd December last year.

Theres no pulling to one side when hard braking, No wheel wobble and the brake peddle is firm, is that still pointing to not being bled properly ? And thanks again

My first inspection would be, remove the pads and check the brake caliper pistons have free movement either side, check all four corners at the same time. Also check the pads have free movement within the caliper,if all is free i would change the pads on all four corners, then bleed the system. As you state the pads are low, so due a change anyway. Make sure all the calipers are clean, remove any brake dust build within the caliper, make sure everything is clean before fitting the pads, use some copper ease on reassembly to keep everything free and moving ( dont apply grease to the pad surface though )

Thanks Gary, will get it sorted next few weeks and post back on here let you know what the problem was, thanks.

Hi Gary sorted brakes out all the calipers were free moving, the problems was very old brake pads one was breaking up, all sorted now tho, thanks for your help

Mark WR1 102 wrote:Hi Gary sorted brakes out all the calipers were free moving, the problems was very old brake pads one was breaking up, all sorted now tho, thanks for your help

Glad you got it sorted and only the pads were the problem

anyone know the cost of replacing discs and pads on the front please?

All depends what you want, front discs can be anything from £100 to £500 think standard front brembo are around £300 hope that helps.

stupidly I thought they were 300 a pair. doh.

Was it standard you are after ? I've had pagid discs and pads front for £145 but I get them at trade

well I was thinking standard to be honest

we can supply most options from OE quality through to extreme use................

0191-4103770

they are 326mm discs arent they?

326mm front and 316mm rear as std..............

AP Racing Brakes are the way to go if you are going to be doing track days, otherwise there are plenty of other better brake solutions to the oem setup which i never found very sharp

Agree Megaman, Im changing the disc and pad for now. Love AP Racing brakes but for the odd hillclimb/sprint i just won't generate the heat to require AP's..yet.

Its something i would consider later on thats for sure. Does the AP racing kit come with Bias control? I was tempted to buy the bias control setup off a WRC car lol, but just seemed like far too much work to get it working in car.

HMR81 wrote:Agree Megaman, Im changing the disc and pad for now. Love AP Racing brakes but for the odd hillclimb/sprint i just won't generate the heat to require AP's..yet.

Its something i would consider later on thats for sure. Does the AP racing kit come with Bias control? I was tempted to buy the bias control setup off a WRC car lol, but just seemed like far too much work to get it working in car.

Nope no bias control with the AP's However you should do front and rear and not just fronts if you are going for AP's to ensure the car is stable under heavy braking.

My first tweak was goodrich braided hoses, 5.1 fluid, EBC yellow stuff pads and EBC turbo grooved discs. These transformed the cars stopping ability for normal driving conditions but on my first track day i cooked the brakes quickly and got brake fade. The yellow stuff pads are great from cold but not when hot on tracks requiring brakes to be hammered. There are now plenty of kits out there which I didnt know about or which werent available when i did mine years ago.

completely agree, i would do the whole car if i was going to change the brakes to AP's.

I've raced some road spec scoobies at sprints and hillclimbs and because of the duration of the event std. STI road brakes don't give you a long pedal but yes, on a track you need braided hoses, 5.1 DOT and a disc/pad combo to take the heat.

Im going to use the Tarox discs with cosworth track pads. They have a great bite from cold and take a good amount of heat, i.e. i can lap brands at a good pace for 5-6 laps before the pedal will start to go a touch long. Given that a sprint and hillclimb is in the region of 1-2 mins long they will be fine for some summer fun and should be ok on the road. I have another toy for tracks anyway, the WR1 is too nice to risk putting her on the roof lol.

Whats the track toy?

250cc gearbox Kart. blows my mind everytime i drive it lol

Pics?

Ive got some at home, ill upload a few when i get chance.

Cool - I was carting at Buckmore park on Monday - bit damp but a lot of fun.