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Ic button

Postby S4lford » Sat Feb 11, 2012 1:14 pm

Does anyone no where the fuse is for the ic button.
It seems to have stopped working.
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Postby Steveyk » Sat Feb 11, 2012 2:28 pm

It hasn't broken, your water tank or pump has frozen. Mine is solid and has been all week!
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Postby Megaman » Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:45 pm

On the subject of the IC spray... do you really use yours?

Many tests have proved them not to be in the least bit affective that ive read.
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Postby Steveyk » Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:07 pm

Nope, filled the bottle 14 months ago, still half full!
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Postby W1 KRB » Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:49 pm

Do you guys put screen wash in your I/c spray bottle?! I have and it is fine, car is kept in non-heated garage and it was -13 here in Bedford fri night, was fine yesterday too cos I checked when I read this thread!
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Postby Steveyk » Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:29 pm

W1 KRB wrote:Do you guys put screen wash in your I/c spray bottle?! I have and it is fine, car is kept in non-heated garage and it was -13 here in Bedford fri night, was fine yesterday too cos I checked when I read this thread!


I'm a bit worried about putting anything in it in case it corrodes the intercooler or something.. :(
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Postby W1 KRB » Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:36 pm

I was first told by ralliart a good few years ago when I had my evo 8 to put screenwash in and have done it to both my imprezas since with no issues!
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Postby Steveyk » Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:43 pm

fair play! Could do with something that would take more heat out of the IC than just water, maybe some Heater Hotter or something
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Postby W1 KRB » Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:46 pm

Tbh as above i don't notice any difference when pressing it, I think you would prob have to coat the intercooler with a fire extinguisher to notice any difference!!
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Postby Megaman » Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:29 pm

Well I have plugged in with a laptop and used a variety of open source programs to monitor temps. A single spray had no affect on the temps. I found I needed to do around 8-9 sprays in a row to have a slight affect of 1 degree better cooling.

If you have a look at the area of the IC that the spray covers / reaches its very small. Some people suggest you modify the spray so that the pipework covers the whole width of the IC and has larger holes to saturate it with water instead of being a fine mist on a very small area of the IC.

Having gone FMIC now I dont have the use for the IC Spray anymore :)
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Postby W1 KRB » Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:31 pm

Just another thing to go wrong in my opinion!!
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Postby Steveyk » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:16 am

so on an otherwise standard engine, would a FMIC have an effect? Obviously it'll run cooler than the standard one, presumably to the benefit of POWERRRR!

And because you're only cooling the intake air it wouldn't upset anything else?
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Postby CAVEMAN » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:37 am

firstly it depends what you fill it with.

The basic idea is to cool the intake air, and hence increase the density and amount of oxygen content to produce the larger bangs to counter the effect of rising temps when it is compressed by the turbo.

The standard intercooler and IC spray just relies on evaporation to provide the additional cooling whereas the FMIC is obviously cooled by the incoming air.

Running a FMIC will need a re-map as it is likely all the factory ECU calibrations will be out. Charge Temps, air/fuel ratio's etc..

Never quite understood the air flow of either set up to be honest as to get the best from them air has to flow through them...but the OE intercooler air has nowhere to go and the FMIC is similarly blocked by the rad and then the engine block itself.

Guess that's why the WRC cars had tilted them both slightly and had the large duct in the bonnet too.
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Postby Megaman » Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:38 am

It is possible that on the standard car a fmic may make the car less responsive but able to keep maintaining its boost when the car is very hot i.e. on tracks etc. From what i understand the top mount intercooler sits on top with a very short pipe to get the air in and out of the intercooler giving quick response. For a front ount the air has to travel through the intercooler then via all the pipework around the side and under the car then back into the top of the engine where the top moun once sat. So the time the cooling takes to happen is slightly longer but once it is happening i.e. when you are moving, it works better as an intercooler than the top mount. I know Andy Forest says he ran a 400BHP car on the standard top mount to keep it responsive but that all the tuners recommend FMIC for track work where things get very hot.

Lastly changing the top mount for a larger one or for a front mount definitely requires a remap. Changing just an intercooler wouldnt see much power gain if any until you start talking big power levels.

:)
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Postby Steveyk » Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:26 am

Wonder if you could fit a couple of fans to the back of the standard one...
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