WR1 Owners Club

What engine oil does everyone run in their 1? I've seen on my last service invoice the dealer has used castrol gtx magnetec 10-40 semi, ive also been recommended mobil 1, any thoughts at all? It's a standard car and gets driven fairly lightly with the odd spirited drive. Cheers Richard

After trying several fully synthetic oils over the years eg. dealers default, Motul/Silkolene Pro S, 5w40 and 10w40 am now running on Silkolene Pro R 15w50 as recommended by Power Engineerng and others.

I dont use anything else but Silkolene Pro R 15w50 ! The name has changed
now i think to TITAN RACE PRO R 15W-50

There's SO MANY opinions on this subject.
I suggest you ask OPIE for thie opinion - they welcome calls on this sort-
The Silkolene (Now -Titan Race Oil) is undoubtably the best stuff but you'll find that for your driving style, Opie may well suggest this MOTUL oil.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-1904-motul ... ntent=1904

Opie v helpful but seem a bit text book. Phone the tuners eg RCM, ASP, etc, people who build engines for clients, get their advice too, it will be different.

I personally think that if its standard and you dont rag the shit out of it all of the time then the manufacturers spec of 10w-40 is pretty bang on for this climate, any brand that is mentioned here is also a safe bet

Spoke to opie today and yes they are very helpful, they said Fuchs 5-40 race pro r synthetic is just the job for the car and high power turbo engines, they said the Titan 15-50 is widely used by the tuners because they obviously tune the cars for more power, they said the fuchs is just the job for a standard 1

They also said it was right for mine... running 360bhp. Not done track days as such... (just feels like it sometimes !)

Just been thro all service sheets and below is a list of range of oils used from most recent first.

Silkolene pro R 15W-50 at latest service with Power Enginering
Silkolene pro S 5W-40
Motul 300V Chrono 10W-40
5W-40 bulk fully synthetic
Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 from new car

Not sure if its a worry or not but our local subaru dealer buys their oil in bulk and uses the same oil what ever that is on all the cars, whether they are none turbo or high performance cars etc. I also always wonder if you take your own brake fluid and oil in if garages stick them in the boot and still put the shite in anyway

You need to find a decent garage like Autotecnica where you know you are getting excellent service

The only time I've been dubious about the oil was when had Motul 300v 10W-40 which was a bit of a surprise to me.

At that time, about three yrs ago, I commuted daily 40m each way round M25 into Essex to the refinery at Coryton during the winter. Every time I started the engine when car had been standing all day or all night there would be a little tapping from the drivers side of engine, sounded like tappet rattle just for few taps. I took the car to Quenby in Baldock, don't go there now, and they kept it overnight to check the cold start noise. After changing cam belt, the tensioner and a couple of idlers no better. Changed to a Silkolene pro S 5W-40 and no more tapping even if car been standing for two weeks!

Over the five years I've had WR1 I've spoken to several dealers/tuners re oil used in servicing. Main dealers like Cross Roads who get involved with track days and tuning use the better (higher spec) oils and what I call run of the mill dealers use the bulk semi or fully synthetic stuff which may well be a shell oil or some vague brand.

My car was originally supplied by Cross Roads and they always used the Castrol RS 10w-60 which I think has been superseded now.

I was looking around for someone to do the last service and went for Power Engineering in Uxbridge. Their choice of oil was the Silkolene/Fuchs Pro R 15W-50, which is what RCM use and also Jolly Green Giant iirc. I queried this in the past with RCM with direct question as to why go for a 15W-50 and It's use for every day car and they were very positive about it and no problems starting a cold engine.

I've also noticed that during an oil change it's best to fill the filter with oil first and crank the engine without firing until the oil light goes off and this seems to be the recommended method. I've also questionned this too with dealers/specialists and some do, some don't!

we always do the pre-fill filter / dry crank method...........

as for JGM he doen't use Silkolene but 15w50 Motul 300v...........

no big fan of Silk/Fuchs these days and would always use/supply (in no particular order) - Motul, Millers or Shell Racing...............

feel free to ring us for advice or deals as we are generally cheaper than AN.other........