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by ROSSCO » Sun Sep 06, 2009 7:15 am
My turbo is making a kind of ratling noise, i think it is the actuator part inside the turbo, when you manually open and close it , it makes a kind of tinny noise almost as if it is slack.
Is the turbo water cooled only ?
Any advice would be appreciated
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ROSSCO
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by WUZ » Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:01 am
VF35 turbo is Water AND Oil Cooled
Off the top of my head, the VF 35 does not come with an adjustable actuator but is the actuator easy to move (towards rear of car)?
Russell
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WUZ
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by ROSSCO » Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:11 am
It is pretty easy to move , any ideas . Thanks
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ROSSCO
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by John Mc » Sun Sep 06, 2009 3:30 pm
Might be the bearings if it sounds like a grinding noise... You can hold the actuator in position but I saw this done at Scooby Clinic once (when they were testing a turbo that couldn't hold boost) and they couldn't control the boost which was obviously dangerous for the engine going pop.
I'd take it to the experts if you aren't already, some things are best left alone!!
[Just incase this gets lost in translation, I am not slandering you, I know people can be sensitive to these harsh words.]
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John Mc
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by ROSSCO » Sun Sep 06, 2009 4:04 pm
i think it is something to do with the wastegate it seems to be rattling . the sound i am hearing sounds like a loose washer on a bolt.
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ROSSCO
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by WUZ » Sun Sep 06, 2009 5:51 pm
If ( as in your other post) it just a loose spring tension in the Wastegate Actuator allowing the Wastegate "penny" to flap (the rattling noise your hearing) then look at removing the Actuator and bend the rod so as to make the rod be under some tension when fitted back onto the Wastegate Nipple
This will add some more spring tension to the Wastegate "Penny" and stop the noise your hearing............
Job done! - time for a cuppa!
Russell
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WUZ
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by ROSSCO » Sun Sep 06, 2009 5:57 pm
Hope this works, it only makes a noise when boosting above 0.9bar
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v640/ ... cture2.jpg
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ROSSCO
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by ROSSCO » Sun Sep 06, 2009 5:59 pm
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ROSSCO
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by WUZ » Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:04 pm
In answer to your second pictures question.................... you can ( IT SEPARATES THE EXHAUST HOUSING FROM THE CENTRAL CORE OF THE TURBO) but it is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY easier to just take off the entire turbo as you risk damaging the Turbine blades when splitting the turbo this way ( ie, in situ) plus there is an alignment nipple on the core.....
Easier to remove entire turbo and split on a workbench ( if you really need to?) or solid table.
Good luck!
Russell
Last edited by WUZ on Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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WUZ
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by ROSSCO » Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:07 pm
would i have to drain the oil an water from the car to remove the turbo ? thanks for your help russell
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ROSSCO
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by WUZ » Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:13 pm
Oil - NO
Water - Approx 4 litres out of radiator will reduce the height of the coolant level below that of the Turbo Coolant inlet (bottom Black Hose to Turbo from block) to allow turbo to come off. Take it all out and change it whilst your there? (Needs done every 2 years anyway)
Anything else, let me know
Russell
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WUZ
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by ROSSCO » Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:24 pm
One last question russell , what type of coolant should i put back in ? thanks again ,ross
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ROSSCO
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by WUZ » Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:20 pm
Comma Xstream Green Extralife (actually Greeny/Blue) 3-year coolant in 5 litre Pack.
Drain out all the old Subaru Coolant, dilute 2.5 litres into the system and she'll be good to go! - keep the other 2.5 litres for next time
Now, where's that Tea Kettle
Russell
* edit: must learn to spell better, should have listened when I was at school *
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WUZ
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by WR 1mposter » Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:50 am
2007 BMW M5 2004 Petter Solberg STi
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WR 1mposter
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by WR 1mposter » Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:52 am
2007 BMW M5 2004 Petter Solberg STi
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WR 1mposter
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