WR1 Owners Club

Hiya,

We are getting front and rear anti roll bars and strut braces fit at the end of the month. When we do this does anyone have any good "settings" for these as I know the ARB's are adjustable...

Also would we need to do anything with laser geometry wheel alignment following fitting these?

I think they have 3 settings, I would recommend you start on the middle setting and see how you go. Alignment is always a good idea unless you have had it dones recently..

The fronts have 2 settings - start on the softest on the front and middle on the rear as Dan says.

Geometry wont be disturbed too much with the fitting but if you havent had it done - well worth doing it.

Bro, have you got yours on the hardest setting?

Do you know if Adam can do the geometry setup?

Also, anyone explain in layman terms what Cambolts do and are they swappable with whatever bolts are currently on the standard WR1?

Camber is basically the vertical angle of the wheel when viewed from the front of the car. Negative camber is when the top of the wheel leans towards the centre of the car, positive is when it leans outwards.

So by inserting some offset bolts (like a cam profile), you can dial in more or less of this angle as you wish. It is generally done with the top bolt that fixes the strut to your wheel hub assembly.

Real race cars and properly designed cars have a double wishbone system, and generally a unequal length set up to maintain a more constant angle when cornering, as the lengths basically determine the arc of curvature that the wheel follows. They also help determine roll angles and dynamic roll centres.

A simple Mac strut set up doesn't have this level of control.

Hope that helps.

Cheers Andy,

If you put "Camber Bolts" on... are these in place of the existing bolts or additional to them?

Do you put these on all 4 corners?

I recently had the alignment checked and they said they needed to adjust the alignment, I assume that they just loosen the bolts and hit something to alter the angle(s)? Technical description

Would camber bolts give you more control over the relevant angles?

Interesting thanks for the feedback guys... anyone know what these do and if they are worth doing at the same time? Also if they are a lot of money??!


STI Lateral and Trailing links
Rose jointed bushes in the wishbones
STI track-rods and ball joints

These are a direct replacement for the top bolts already fixing the lower strut to the wheel hub.

I 'think' the standard car comes with adjustable ones at the front anyway, generally the rears are fixed. Although you can loosen off or drill out the holes a little to give you more freedom.

Alignment isn't just on camber, it is done on toe angles too so it is worth getting these spot on. Although if you are going for factory settings then there is no need to change bolts. Castor is also fixed unless you have adjustable top mounts, or fancy wishbone mounts.

I would imagine on normal road use you wouldn't be able to notice..giving it death on a track or stage is a different matter, but even then most of us would be hard pushed to tell the difference.

They will change with cornering G loads due to body roll angles anyway.

dynamix wrote:The fronts have 2 settings - start on the softest on the front and middle on the rear as Dan says.

Geometry wont be disturbed too much with the fitting but if you havent had it done - well worth doing it.

Any recommendations on decent places to get the geometry done?

KT Green will do the wheel alignment for you...but I suspect to factory settings. It was £80 when I asked a few weeks ago.

If you want different then you'll have to tell them what you need.

KT Green got me the prodrive recommended settings which ive got at home somewhere but they showed max and mins and they were a bit in the middle so probably factory standard...

Not bothered about doing those other bits if i will only notice it on a rally stage

Megaman wrote:KT Green got me the prodrive recommended settings which ive got at home somewhere but they showed max and mins and they were a bit in the middle so probably factory standard...

Not bothered about doing those other bits if i will only notice it on a rally stage

Adam said you could add them retrospectively and it would be better to get them done at a place that has the geometry setup equipment. He suggested trying out the stuff we have bought first to get used to it and then add the rest if you feel you need it... sensible suggestion I thought

yep a good plan

Try RCM .. I heard in the grape vine ... There makin there own ... should be nearly done .. i seen a sample .. tidy mate front and rear

Call tim @ RCM

Adam fitted loads of Perrin stuff to my car ( rollbars, droplinks, anti lift kit and subframe lock down kit ) and removed it again when I decided to sell the car.
Your cars really couldn't be in better hands than Adam's
If I am around I might call up to say hello

ScoobyDan wrote:Adam fitted loads of Perrin stuff to my car ( rollbars, droplinks, anti lift kit and subframe lock down kit ) and removed it again when I decided to sell the car.
Your cars really couldn't be in better hands than Adam's
If I am around I might call up to say hello

We are going there on Sat 30th, will be there from about 9-10am.... and there till about 2-3pm!?!

Spike and Bro are going to try and make it over too... when they get off the porcelain phone.

John Mc Tiddler (Dogging Expert) wrote:

ScoobyDan wrote:Adam fitted loads of Perrin stuff to my car ( rollbars, droplinks, anti lift kit and subframe lock down kit ) and removed it again when I decided to sell the car.
Your cars really couldn't be in better hands than Adam's
If I am around I might call up to say hello

We are going there on Sat 30th, will be there from about 9-10am.... and there till about 2-3pm!?!

Spike and Bro are going to try and make it over too... when they get off the porcelain phone.

You'll be hoping I don't turn up after tomorrow evening

CAVEMAN wrote:These are a direct replacement for the top bolts already fixing the lower strut to the wheel hub.

I 'think' the standard car comes with adjustable ones at the front anyway, generally the rears are fixed. Although you can loosen off or drill out the holes a little to give you more freedom.

Alignment isn't just on camber, it is done on toe angles too so it is worth getting these spot on. Although if you are going for factory settings then there is no need to change bolts. Castor is also fixed unless you have adjustable top mounts, or fancy wishbone mounts.

I would imagine on normal road use you wouldn't be able to notice..giving it death on a track or stage is a different matter, but even then most of us would be hard pushed to tell the difference.

They will change with cornering G loads due to body roll angles anyway.

hi m8 on newage the top bolts are camber adjustable ,these must be retained but you can fit aditional bolts to the bottom holes to give you more adjustment.
the rear has static bolts that have no adjustment at all .2 adjustment bolts can be fitted to give maximum camber
you are better getting more caster on the front then worry about camber
cheers geo