WR1 steering to the right under acceleration!

[Ferret WR1]

Question to all WR1 drivers, when you accelerate does your car go in a straight line???

Mine goes to the right slightly then when I ease off the acceleration it goes slightly to the left, maybe because end up over compensating the right steer.

I've had my tracking/geometry checked and gave the settings from Mike Wood in this thread:

forum/viewtopic.php?t=792&highlight=

It's only very slight but it's annoying me, garage say it could be toque steer, but I wanted to have other people opinions please.

Thanks in advance

[WAYNE WRX]

I havent noticed anything, but will check for you tomorrow

[Megaman]

My car always pulled to the left when off throttle or maintaining speed. When accelerating it went straight or slightly right.

I had my balance / laser alignment / tracking checked and the car was way out on prodrives settings.

After fixing the various issues (which included 2 new evenly warn front tyres) the car now steers straight at all times unless under heavy acceleration when going uphills - at which time im guessing the toe angle changes.. then it pulls ever so slightly to the right.

Father in laws RB320 does the same and pulls right slightly under heavy throttle so i put it down to torque steer.

Now if i boot my 300bhp focus ST that will literally go which ever direction grips first and will tear across the road unless you hold on so compared to this the scoobys little bit of pull is fine... I thought the ST was bad before going in an astra vxr that was even worse for torque steer.

cheers

mega

[Foley]

My wr1 pulls to the left after 70mph is this normal? It's just very slightly nothing major, Do you think i should get it checked out? Anyone elses do this?
Cheers j

[The Swede]

A scoob isn't supposed to torque-steer or anything, so anything it does except for going straight, is no good news.

Geometry out

[Foley]

A scoob isn't supposed to torque-steer or anything, so anything it does except for going straight, is no good news.

Geometry out

Another thing on my list to do, Get geometry done

Never ending list

[dynamix]

Best £60 you can ever spend

[Poncho]

Geometry without a doubt, my p1 was a plumb for this.

[Ferret WR1]

A scoob isn't supposed to torque-steer or anything, so anything it does except for going straight, is no good news.

Geometry out

Thanks guys for all your comments!

However the point is I have had the geometry done and the problem still exist

A point from Megaman regarding tyre tread, my front right is a few mm more worn then the left, is this enough to cause me this problem?

[Poncho]

I would suggest the difference in the tyre tread would be to do with it pulling to either side, if any of my tyres were different treat depths (providing i knew they were replaced at the same time which they should be) id again be looking a the geometry.

How are your shocks?

[Ferret WR1]

I would suggest the difference in the tyre tread would be to do with it pulling to either side, if any of my tyres were different treat depths (providing i knew they were replaced at the same time which they should be) id again be looking a the geometry.

How are your shocks?

Not had my shocks checked, however I believe I got the common "rear shocks" problem as my rear passengers say they hear a knocking noise. I still have warranty, which I am hoping will cover this. Probably my next avenue to resolve this problem.

[Poncho]

It may well be that then dude making the car lean to one side would put more weight on tyres in question and i would suggest although not the front would still induce the car to steer to the way it leaned. How common is the rear shock knocking? Glad to hear your still in warranty i think replacement OE cost around 300 sheets each.

hope you get it sorted amigo

[WAYNE WRX]

Been out in it today and I also have the lumpy sounding shocks but it doesn't bother me, anyway as I said took it out for a long spin and It just doesn't pull left or right wether I'm going up hill or down. Ive never had the tracking done on it either

[Megaman]

A scoob isn't supposed to torque-steer or anything, so anything it does except for going straight, is no good news.

Geometry out

Thanks guys for all your comments!

However the point is I have had the geometry done and the problem still exist

A point from Megaman regarding tyre tread, my front right is a few mm more worn then the left, is this enough to cause me this problem?

Hiya,

When I took my car in for full laser geometry alignment / balance / toe / camber etc.. they did all the work then told me that the tread on my tyres was uneven - the right tyre was bigger than my left tye by half an inch or so - tread wise. It looked like the previous owner had been doing lots of v fast left turns but not many right to even it out. So then I had to have 2 new tyres and then the whole lot done AGAIN with the new tyres and it made a massive difference to the car.

What I dont understand is when you get new tyres, why you need them balancing etc. I asked them to check all alloys for signs of buckling and they said all were fine... yet they have to stick weights on the wheels to get the car balanced... i assumed new tyres wouldnt need balancing, its only when you hit pot holes and get the tyre out of shape that you need it... anyway back to the problem at hand... if your tyres are over half warn then replace them - always in pairs and THEN get the alignment etc done on the car. Otherwise you do the process twice and waste 80 quid like i did.. doh!

let us know how u get on

[WR 1mposter]

A scoob isn't supposed to torque-steer or anything, so anything it does except for going straight, is no good news.

Geometry out

Thanks guys for all your comments!

However the point is I have had the geometry done and the problem still exist

A point from Megaman regarding tyre tread, my front right is a few mm more worn then the left, is this enough to cause me this problem?

Hiya,

When I took my car in for full laser geometry alignment / balance / toe / camber etc.. they did all the work then told me that the tread on my tyres was uneven - the right tyre was bigger than my left tye by half an inch or so - tread wise. It looked like the previous owner had been doing lots of v fast left turns but not many right to even it out. So then I had to have 2 new tyres and then the whole lot done AGAIN with the new tyres and it made a massive difference to the car.

What I dont understand is when you get new tyres, why you need them balancing etc. I asked them to check all alloys for signs of buckling and they said all were fine... yet they have to stick weights on the wheels to get the car balanced... i assumed new tyres wouldnt need balancing, its only when you hit pot holes and get the tyre out of shape that you need it... anyway back to the problem at hand... if your tyres are over half warn then replace them - always in pairs and THEN get the alignment etc done on the car. Otherwise you do the process twice and waste 80 quid like i did.. doh!

let us know how u get on

All new tyres /wheels should be balanced...

[Ferret WR1]

Update:

My rear shocks have gone and are hopefully getting replaced tomorrow under extended warranty:

forum/viewtopic.php?p=146967

My tyre wear is uneven probably due to the faulty shocks. Current wear in mm:

NSF OSF
444 223

NSR OSF
444 144

So I'm having 2 new tyres fitted tomorrow, shocks done and the geo then finally my car should drive straight! Well that's the plan.

So my question is where shall I put the new 2 tyres? On the front or back?

Advice greatly appreciated.

[Bonovox]

New tyres on the back I seem to remember?

[Foley]

I hope you get it back and it drives like new again

[Ferret WR1]

Thanks Foley.

Bonovox I would agree with you but ProSport and the tyre place say put new tyres on front, so I'm confused

[Ferret WR1]

Update:

My rear shocks have gone and are hopefully getting replaced tomorrow under extended warranty:

forum/viewtopic.php?p=146967

My tyre wear is uneven probably due to the faulty shocks. Current wear in mm:

NSF OSF
444 223

NSR OSF
444 144

So I'm having 2 new tyres fitted tomorrow, shocks done and the geo then finally my car should drive straight! Well that's the plan.

So my question is where shall I put the new 2 tyres? On the front or back?

Advice greatly appreciated.

Any final advice on where I should put the new 2 tyres? I'm going to get them fitted this morning.

[John Mc]

"444mm" of wear? Have you got monster truck tyres on your 1??

Put them diametrically opposed to one another, even out the grip front and rear and not all on the same side.

[Ferret WR1]

"444mm" of wear? Have you got monster truck tyres on your 1??

Put them diametrically opposed to one another, even out the grip front and rear and not all on the same side.

4mm on the left side, 4mm in the middle and 4 mm on the right side. Come on, you knew that

"diametrically opposed" not quite sure what you mean here.

[Gee Wr1]

When i was in our local tyre place replacing the fronts on my van the other week i was reading a poster on the wall from Goodyear & it was saying about always fitting new tyres to the rear if only replacing 2.

[marky mark]

You need to put your 2 new tyres on the same axle. i.e both on the front or both on the rear.

Having mismached tyre sizes front to rear by a few mm will not cause an issue, but they need to be the same ish along each axle.

[John Mc]

You need to put your 2 new tyres on the same axle. i.e both on the front or both on the rear.

Having mismached tyre sizes front to rear by a few mm will not cause an issue, but they need to be the same ish along each axle.

I thought that all 4 wheels were "independantly driven", would it be noticeable where the most grip was?

If you had put them diametrically opposed then you'd have "equally different grip" front and rear if you had the same wear on the worn tyres and the other 2 being new?

Whereas if you had 2 new on the front and 2 worn on the rear you would have a lot less grip on the rear than the front?

[CAVEMAN]

new tyres on rear is the general rule, so as to give better grip to the rear. i.e. prevents oversteer and promtes understeer and slower driving.

I guess the logic behind it is that oversteer for the 'average' driver is far more scary and difficult to control/predict than understeer.

Not sure how this applies to the 4wd scoob with DCCD as you could alter the torque send to each axle anyways to compensate.

I did have a dodgy ARB mount once that caused the slight pull to the right under acceleration...quickly changed out to squeaky ProFlex jobbies, but helped get it back in a straight line.

[Ferret WR1]

Update:

Had 2 new tyres but on the rear axle
All 4 wheels balanced
2 new rear shocks courtesy of extended Subaru warranty
4 wheel alignment/geometry done

Granted my car drive much more in a straight line now, however still pulls a bit to the right and then does a wobble when easing of the accelerator.

Had my work mate who quite knowledgeable about cars look at it and he reckons it’s a sticky right calliper that causing it to go right ever so slightly and engine mounts that causing the wobble.

Going back to Subaru today to have it checked. Will keep you all updated.

[Bonovox]

How do garages tend to treat customers with warranty work? I have a few niggles that I thought on getting checked out but I bought my car down South from a Subaru dealer with a years Subaru proven warranty.
The dealer up here has stopped selling Scoobies but still does warranty work on them I believe. Would they look at me as a nuisance or as more work in this bad economic climate.

[Ferret WR1]

How do garages tend to treat customers with warranty work? I have a few niggles that I thought on getting checked out but I bought my car down South from a Subaru dealer with a years Subaru proven warranty.
The dealer up here has stopped selling Scoobies but still does warranty work on them I believe. Would they look at me as a nuisance or as more work in this bad economic climate.

Ummm, well my personal opinion is that garages tend to try avoid warranty work as Subaru warranty don't pay the garage carrying the work out much for there time.

For example, my rear shock replacement were £287 + VAT each then 0.6 hours labour to replace one then 0.4 hours labour to replace the other. I asked why one was less then the other and I was told it because Subaru say you already have the car jacked up. They think of everything, so the garage only really got 1 hour labour by taking on my warranty work. However I did also get 4 wheel alignment/geometry plus 1.5 hours labour for the adjustments costing near £200 out my own pocket.

It would be wise for all garages to opening take on warranty work, as Prosport my local approved Subaru service centre did. After having a bad experience at the start, they have now built a reasonable relationship with me and I'm getting a good service from them and they are getting business from me. I.e. I'm going back to have my brakes and engine mounts checked, hopefully get engine mounts sorted on extended warranty if faulty and the brakes will have to come out my pocket. Then there the service I will shortly needing from them.

My advice would be to contact your local approved Subaru service centre and discuss the "niggles" and see what can get covered by warranty. End of the day that what the warranty for, so use it!

[Bonovox]

Thanks for that, think you are right. I'm off on holiday soon, when I get back I am due an MOT, think I may see what happens there and get it booked in.
I think my shockers are on the way out too, they knock .....well it's more of a click than a knock, that and a sticky bonnet catch are my problems up to now.