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by Robocop » Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:02 pm
I will have some genuine Prodrive bling bling bits up for sale hopefully.
Strut brace Oil filler cap Battery clamp Valve caps
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by chris » Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:54 pm
Robocop wrote:I will have some genuine Prodrive bling bling bits up for sale hopefully.
Strut brace Oil filler cap Battery clamp Valve caps
How much do you want for the strut brace, and will it fit my Foreser?
Too petty to be a traffic warden...
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 5:50 pm
Car now SOLD Many thanks to Iain & Tim @ Litchfields
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by Wheatie » Sat Jan 21, 2006 5:59 pm
Robocop wrote:I will have some genuine Prodrive bling bling bits up for sale hopefully.
Strut brace Oil filler cap Battery clamp Valve caps
How much for all above
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk, because they have to say something.
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:03 pm
Make me a sensible offer. I've got a figure in mind, but let's see how far you're off. Where are you based btw?
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by Wheatie » Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:16 pm
Robocop wrote:Make me a sensible offer. I've got a figure in mind, but let's see how far you're off. Where are you based btw?
Me sensible, come on. I haven't a clue for second hand value, you give me an idea of cost and i will decide if i think it's worth it. Harrogate north yorkshire.
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:24 pm
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:27 pm
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by danr55 » Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:23 pm
i'd be interested to know how much difference the strut brace makes ? was thinking the other day that the car was leaning quite a lots through corners...
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by danr55 » Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:25 pm
p.s congrats on the sale, that was quick. now what's next ?
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:15 pm
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:34 pm
danr55 wrote:i'd be interested to know how much difference the strut brace makes ? was thinking the other day that the car was leaning quite a lots through corners...
It won't stop the car learning, but it did firm up my steering. I def noticed a difference going round a roundabout. Here's a cut and paste Q&A with Damian Harty, Prodrive suspension guru. Strutbrace Q: There is an awful lot of mythology around this stuff that goes back to body-on-chassis beam-axled racers in the 20s - I'm not kidding. There are two effects that are important. Basically, the body structure is like a "fifth spring" between the front and rear suspension. If that spring is not stiff enough then the body relaxes out any redictribution of roll moment that the anti-roll bars were trying to make and so the car is unresponsive to handling balance tuning with springs and bars. However, once the body is "stiff enough" then making it stiffer offers no benefits. A good rule of thumb is that the torsional stiffness of the body (between suspension mount points) needs to be about ten times the roll stiffness of the stiffest suspension end (usually the front). If you chase the numbers through you end up with about 5-7 kNn/degree as the requirement for a body structure. Most modern monocoques comfortably exceed that and the Subaru with its bonded screens both ends does too. Somewhere I have a figure but can't recall it right now. Anything over 10 is good, 15-17 is current "state-of-the-art". So in that case, a strut brace does very little. The second effect is a bit more complicated. The body moves on the suspension but the wheel also moves on the tyre - the tyre is in many ways a "secondary" suspension system. That movement is partially controlled by the tyre and partially by the suspension damper and happens 10 to 15 times a second. The body is a flexible thing that has its own resonances and because of the shape of most cars at the front - they need a hole to put the engine in - it can get quite flexible in just about this frequency region. If the body goes flexible - goes into resonance - then the damper just moves with the body and can't contribute to the control of the tyre and in fact can do something bad called "mass loading" where the tyre is carrying not only itself but also part of the body _while it resonates_ (it's important to separate the static 'weight carrying' from dynamic things in your mind). In those cases, the strut brace can help because if it is a good design then it stiffens the front end usefully.
What all of the above means is that the effectiveness of a strut brace is strongly connected to the stiffness of your suspension. So for a Scoob that is fairly standard, the strut brace probably doesn't do a great deal, but as they get modified and stiffened the brace will contribute more to a well controlled feel over less-than-perfect surfaces.Loads more info in this very large thread http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.p ... 7279&pp=20Kevin
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by danr55 » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:47 pm
spec ?
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:49 pm
Spec C with a Milltek exhaust K&N filter and 3 port boost solenoid. Half way to a T20.
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by danr55 » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:50 pm
Robocop wrote:Spec C with a Miltek exhaust K&N filter and 3 port boost solenoid. Half way to a T20.
2l or 2.5 ? what sort of figures does it kick out ?
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by danr55 » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:51 pm
Robocop wrote:danr55 wrote:i'd be interested to know how much difference the strut brace makes ? was thinking the other day that the car was leaning quite a lots through corners...
It won't stop the car learning, but it did firm up my steering. I def noticed a difference going round a roundabout. Here's a cut and paste Q&A with Damian Harty, Prodrive suspension guru. Strutbrace Q: There is an awful lot of mythology around this stuff that goes back to body-on-chassis beam-axled racers in the 20s - I'm not kidding. There are two effects that are important. Basically, the body structure is like a "fifth spring" between the front and rear suspension. If that spring is not stiff enough then the body relaxes out any redictribution of roll moment that the anti-roll bars were trying to make and so the car is unresponsive to handling balance tuning with springs and bars. However, once the body is "stiff enough" then making it stiffer offers no benefits. A good rule of thumb is that the torsional stiffness of the body (between suspension mount points) needs to be about ten times the roll stiffness of the stiffest suspension end (usually the front). If you chase the numbers through you end up with about 5-7 kNn/degree as the requirement for a body structure. Most modern monocoques comfortably exceed that and the Subaru with its bonded screens both ends does too. Somewhere I have a figure but can't recall it right now. Anything over 10 is good, 15-17 is current "state-of-the-art". So in that case, a strut brace does very little. The second effect is a bit more complicated. The body moves on the suspension but the wheel also moves on the tyre - the tyre is in many ways a "secondary" suspension system. That movement is partially controlled by the tyre and partially by the suspension damper and happens 10 to 15 times a second. The body is a flexible thing that has its own resonances and because of the shape of most cars at the front - they need a hole to put the engine in - it can get quite flexible in just about this frequency region. If the body goes flexible - goes into resonance - then the damper just moves with the body and can't contribute to the control of the tyre and in fact can do something bad called "mass loading" where the tyre is carrying not only itself but also part of the body _while it resonates_ (it's important to separate the static 'weight carrying' from dynamic things in your mind). In those cases, the strut brace can help because if it is a good design then it stiffens the front end usefully.
What all of the above means is that the effectiveness of a strut brace is strongly connected to the stiffness of your suspension. So for a Scoob that is fairly standard, the strut brace probably doesn't do a great deal, but as they get modified and stiffened the brace will contribute more to a well controlled feel over less-than-perfect surfaces.Loads more info in this very large thread http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.p ... 7279&pp=20Kevin
interesting... I'd love to know what effect it would have on the wr1, will post a separate thread....
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:53 pm
2.0l engine. It should be around 350ish bhp
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by WR1 Bro » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:57 pm
I went for a blat in Ian Litchfields black Spec C. It was awesome. I think that was 360bhp.
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by danr55 » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:57 pm
Robocop wrote:2.0l engine. It should be around 350ish bhp
i'll be down your neck of the woods for a go once it's run in then!
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:00 pm
Yup, I test drove the same car. Spec C Type 20. He sold it for about
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by chris » Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:09 pm
danr55 wrote:spec ?
You should reject that. Some b*stard's drawn all over the windscreen and stolen the number plates.
Too petty to be a traffic warden...
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by Robocop » Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:18 pm
F***ing Pikey Ba***rds
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by Wheatie » Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:38 am
[quote="Robocop"]
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk, because they have to say something.
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by Robocop » Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:25 am
Hi Hopefully have it all sorted within a week. Can you let me know about the Prodrive bits, as there is another interested party in some of the bits. No problem with ANC etc. If I have no sale come the end of today, I'll be placing them on ebay along with a XDA2s PDA mobile. Obviously I need to free up as much cash as possible now. Regards Kevin
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by Wheatie » Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:35 am
Robocop wrote:Hi Hopefully have it all sorted within a week. Can you let me know about the Prodrive bits, as there is another interested party in some of the bits. No problem with ANC etc. If I have no sale come the end of today, I'll be placing them on ebay along with a XDA2s PDA mobile. Obviously I need to free up as much cash as possible now. Regards Kevin
I will take the lot
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by Robocop » Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:38 am
No, it's a bit to far from me. Let me know how you wish to go about it.
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by Wheatie » Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:44 am
Robocop wrote:No, it's a bit to far from me. Let me know how you wish to go about it.
Kevin send me PM with your address and i will get a cheque in the post tomorrow. Will you have a business address for collection once the cheque has cleared, let me know Kev.
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by Robocop » Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:09 am
Wheatie
Please read your PM and contact me ASAP. Rather talk than type Kevin
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by Wheatie » Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:20 am
Robocop wrote:Wheatie
Please read your PM and contact me ASAP. Rather talk than type Kevin
Sorted
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk, because they have to say something.
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by Robocop » Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:23 am
Martin
Please read your PM and contact me ASAP. Rather talk than type Kevin
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