Hi

[broughton87]

First post, just like to say hello!
Going to look at a wr1 this weekend, no 350, anyone got any info on this car? thanks, Steve.

[Bonovox]

If it's this one

forum/viewtopic.php?t=12793&highlight=350

[Foley]

[broughton87]

Thanks

[broughton87]

Sorry i just contacted the seller and it's no 325 not 350, couldnt find any info on this number, just wondering if anyone else can? thanks, Steve.

[WR1 Bro]

Welcome to the forum. Best of luck with the purchase.

[John Mc]

Welcome mate.

All jokes aside, I would be very careful about the numbers as there have been a couple of worrying stories on "same numbers".... Always worth a double check.
Check the turbo is the correct one, or at least the one the engine is mapped for...

Check the Engine number matches the number on the log book too

[broughton87]

Thanks for the advice, how would I know if it's the correct turbo? Do you meen the chassis number? Or is there a number on the engine also? Anymore advice would be much appreciated, thanks, Steve B.

[Shane]

Welcome to the club and good luck with your purchase

[John Mc]

Thanks for the advice, how would I know if it's the correct turbo? Do you meen the chassis number? Or is there a number on the engine also? Anymore advice would be much appreciated, thanks, Steve B.

I'm being funny about the turbo and engine number mate as these are issues I had with the one I bought

It had a TD04L (WRX) turbo on it, should have been VF35 but I only realised when I took it on the rolling road 3 months after I bought it and found it was 50-60bhp short... The engine block number is stamped under the intercooler area so not easy to see, I think you need to take things off to read it (I had to when I checked). The engine number will be on the log book (not talking about VIN number).

Want to watch for rust around the windscreen seals (replacement windscreen companies sometimes use knives to remove the seal and end up slashing the paint leading to rust) and also around the boot area, release the boot and check around the rubber boot seal for signs of rust as these are the weak areas it seems. Well looked after ones will be sound.

Just look for general leaks, diff leaks, gearbox leaks (you'll do better with a ramp to have a good look. If you do get one up on a ramp, just check the exhaust for rust and joints. Ask when rear struts were last changed as these are a weak point and will cost £300+ per side. If they do go, I would change to coil-overs as the subaru ones will keep failing due to their design, you might get 3000 miles or 10,000miles... it is very random!

Generally, these cars are bulletproof mate. You won't go far wrong but it really depends on how it has been treated and the attention to oils used and service intervals etc.... they aren't that cheap to run and do need to be cared for. All this is offset with the fun though, they are great fun to drive and you won't find many equivalent performance cars for the same money. If there is one area I would not skimp on, I would always use the best tyres you can afford, I don't think cheap is the way to go on a performance car like these!

Do your homework and take your time.

[broughton87]

Thanks for your help, great reply .

[Cozzy 481]

Goodluck with your purchase mate.

[broughton87]

thanks mate