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Postby The Swede » Sun Sep 10, 2006 6:51 pm

Martin tried the Zymol yet ?
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Postby WR 1mposter » Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:19 pm

Not yet Sandy :roll:


cars going to to be done properly end of Sept, so will wait til after then
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Postby WR 1mposter » Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:23 pm

Torrekens wrote:Martin tried the Zymol yet ?


At last tried the zymol tonite 8)


So clay bar'd the car got the chami out, but as for the pre cleanse paste what a waste of time totally usless, so pre- cleaned the whole car with g3, which is so good at removing tar and grime made it pretty effortless,

Tried Zymol with a applicator pad to begin with :? did'nt look to impressive I have to say !

So I did what it said on the tin and use my hands.........
So much easier this way, absolutly amazing finish !
And only the first coat 8)


Will do another tomoz outside in the sunshine :D

Then Arthur has to be done ...orders :roll:
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Postby WR1 Bro » Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:35 am

WR 1mpostor (aka number 1 moderator) wrote:
Torrekens wrote:Martin tried the Zymol yet ?


At last tried the zymol tonite 8)


So clay bar'd the car got the chami out, but as for the pre cleanse paste what a waste of time totally usless, so pre- cleaned the whole car with g3, which is so good at removing tar and grime made it pretty effortless,

Tried Zymol with a applicator pad to begin with :? did'nt look to impressive I have to say !

So I did what it said on the tin and use my hands.........
So much easier this way, absolutly amazing finish !
And only the first coat 8)


Will do another tomoz outside in the sunshine :D

Then Arthur has to be done ...orders :roll:


I did half the bonnet with a pad and half using my fingers. I couldn't begin to convince myself that one method was better than the other.

There was a major downside to the finger method is that you waste more Zymol.
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Postby danr55 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:29 am

I think i need some Zymol, where is the best place to source it?
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Postby WR1 Bro » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:46 am

danr55 wrote:I think i need some Zymol, where is the best place to source it?


The last time I looked EBAY was VERY GOOD!
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Postby danr55 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:51 am

any particular products i should be looking for?
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Postby WR1 Bro » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:31 am

danr55 wrote:any particular products i should be looking for?


As Martin said, I think the HD Cleanser is shite.

Regards the wax - your wallet is the determining factor.
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Postby Gazman2054 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:37 am

I beg to differ on the Zymol HD clenser as i used it before the first time i waxed ours.
It did a great job of getting rid of all the surface rubbish.
But each to there own.
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Postby WR1 Bro » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:40 am

Gazman2054 wrote:I beg to differ


Beg away.
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Postby Gazman2054 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:42 am

WR1 Bro wrote:
Gazman2054 wrote:I beg to differ


Beg away.


:rofl:
I must say i have never used a claybar though...
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Postby WR1 Bro » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:46 am

Gazman2054 wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:
Gazman2054 wrote:I beg to differ


Beg away.


:rofl:
I must say i have never used a claybar though...


You can tell.

:rofl:
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Postby WR1 Bro » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:11 am

danr55 wrote:any particular products i should be looking for?


http://www.zdouk.com/

Seem to be good prices at the moment.
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Postby SPIKE LIKE MIKE » Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:59 pm

HD cleanse is OK but it doesnt remove the ground in tar type spots very well.

After the HD give it a clay bar for super smooth/wet glass smoothness - this also removes any residue from the HD that "may" be left :wink:

I use autoglym tar remover for stubborn residue.
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Postby presa900 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:06 pm

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:
I use autoglym tar remover for stubborn residue.



I used it at the weekend Spike, it certainly removes those stubborn tar stains, but it left a lot of residue and smears afterwards though, which were quite difficult to remove.

I am using the three stage Meguires treatment at the moment, which did the trick. :thumb:
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Postby Gazman2054 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:17 pm

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:HD cleanse is OK but it doesnt remove the ground in tar type spots very well.

After the HD give it a clay bar for super smooth/wet glass smoothness - this also removes any residue from the HD that "may" be left :wink:

I use autoglym tar remover for stubborn residue.


How much use do you get from a clay bar Spike?
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Postby WR1 Bro » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:00 pm

I've never found the need for anything more aggressive than Autoglym polish. Since using Zymol wax 99% of tar can be flicked off.
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Postby WR 1mposter » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:43 pm

WR1 Bro wrote:

There was a major downside to the finger method is that you waste more Zymol.


I beg to differ on that Bro

more wasted with the pad i thought :?
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Postby WR 1mposter » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:48 pm

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:HD cleanse is OK but it doesnt remove the ground in tar type spots very well.

After the HD give it a clay bar for super smooth/wet glass smoothness - this also removes any residue from the HD that "may" be left :wink:

I use autoglym tar remover for stubborn residue.



Have not gave 1mposter much care of late since the acci :cry:
So covered in tarspots hd cleanse was useless even the clay bar that is normally pretty good struggled. So got the g3 out FOC amzing stuff that and easy to use to no residue and was ready to "zymol on zymol off"




but need doing again as car is covered in seagull shit :evil:
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Postby SPIKE LIKE MIKE » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:39 pm

Gazman2054 wrote:
Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:HD cleanse is OK but it doesnt remove the ground in tar type spots very well.

After the HD give it a clay bar for super smooth/wet glass smoothness - this also removes any residue from the HD that "may" be left :wink:

I use autoglym tar remover for stubborn residue.


How much use do you get from a clay bar Spike?


The Meguiars one is shyte mate - goes soft and drags even when lubed up.
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Postby presa900 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:08 pm

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:
Cut off a peice flatten out "a bit" to a 50 pence peice size so it covers your 2 fingers(Index and middle) plenty of lube spray and forward back motion nice and easy.




:shock: :shock: :shock:
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Postby SPIKE LIKE MIKE » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:17 pm

presa900 wrote:
Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:
Cut off a peice flatten out "a bit" to a 50 pence peice size so it covers your 2 fingers(Index and middle) plenty of lube spray and forward back motion nice and easy.




:shock: :shock: :shock:


:rofl: :nono: cleaning the car - not w4nking mate :wink:

need BOTH hands for that :toofunny:

(1 for the tweezers , 1 for the sock :lol: )
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Postby WR1 Bro » Wed Apr 11, 2007 7:10 am

WR 1mpostor (aka number 1 moderator) wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:

There was a major downside to the finger method is that you waste more Zymol.


I beg to differ on that Bro

more wasted with the pad i thought :?


I really disagree with you.
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Postby WR1 Bro » Wed Apr 11, 2007 7:12 am

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:
presa900 wrote:
Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:
Cut off a peice flatten out "a bit" to a 50 pence peice size so it covers your 2 fingers(Index and middle) plenty of lube spray and forward back motion nice and easy.




:shock: :shock: :shock:


:rofl: :nono: cleaning the car - not w4nking mate :wink:

need BOTH hands for that :toofunny:

(1 for the tweezers , 1 for the sock :lol: )



FPMSL!
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Postby SPIKE LIKE MIKE » Wed Apr 11, 2007 11:27 am

WR1 Bro wrote:
WR 1mpostor (aka number 1 moderator) wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:

There was a major downside to the finger method is that you waste more Zymol.


I beg to differ on that Bro

more wasted with the pad i thought :?


I really disagree with you.


im with pooster as the pads soak in the wax and when you warm it in hands it also mixes it to a more consistent texture.
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Postby WR1 Bro » Wed Apr 11, 2007 11:55 am

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:
WR 1mpostor (aka number 1 moderator) wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:

There was a major downside to the finger method is that you waste more Zymol.


I beg to differ on that Bro

more wasted with the pad i thought :?


I really disagree with you.


im with pooster as the pads soak in the wax and when you warm it in hands it also mixes it to a more consistent texture.


Some does go into the pad... but this is so minimal.

When using your hands you have to keep wiping them between applying and then buffing each small section. This wastes more and DOES not give an improved finish.

I have used the same pad for the last 15-20 applications and can guarantee that the pad isn't full of the wax.
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Postby SPIKE LIKE MIKE » Wed Apr 11, 2007 2:03 pm

WR1 Bro wrote:
Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:
WR 1mpostor (aka number 1 moderator) wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:

There was a major downside to the finger method is that you waste more Zymol.


I beg to differ on that Bro

more wasted with the pad i thought :?


I really disagree with you.


im with pooster as the pads soak in the wax and when you warm it in hands it also mixes it to a more consistent texture.


Some does go into the pad... but this is so minimal.

When using your hands you have to keep wiping them between applying and then buffing each small section. This wastes more and DOES not give an improved finish.

I have used the same pad for the last 15-20 applications and can guarantee that the pad isn't full of the wax.


I do apanel at a time and let it turn/start hardening.

Why wipe hands???? keep on waxing mate - clean cloth is all hands come in contact with so no need to keep wiping off wax

Surely your pad must go hard???? I would worry it will scratch teh paintwork.

MY CAR IS SHINIER THAN YOURS :finger:
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Postby WR1 Bro » Wed Apr 11, 2007 2:24 pm

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:I do apanel at a time and let it turn/start hardening.


I don't let it harden too much else you have to work TOO hard to buff it. Besides, along with the stupid suggest of applying the wax by hand Zymol ALSO tell you not to let it go hard!!

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:Why wipe hands???? keep on waxing mate - clean cloth is all hands come in contact with so no need to keep wiping off wax

Small area at a time. Excess is going to come off on the buffing cloth and then it doesn't buff so well.

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:Surely your pad must go hard???? I would worry it will scratch teh paintwork.

Pad does not go hard.

Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:MY CAR IS SHINIER THAN YOURS :finger:

I disagree... I will agree that your car has had more resprays than mine :wank:
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Postby WR 1mposter » Wed Apr 11, 2007 2:25 pm

WR1 Bro wrote:
WR 1mpostor (aka number 1 moderator) wrote:
WR1 Bro wrote:

There was a major downside to the finger method is that you waste more Zymol.


I beg to differ on that Bro

more wasted with the pad i thought :?


I really disagree with you.


ditto :lol:
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Postby danr55 » Wed Apr 11, 2007 2:28 pm

WR1 Bro wrote:
Spike "THE LEGEND" Mike XXX wrote:I do apanel at a time and let it turn/start hardening.


I don't let it harden too much else you have to work TOO hard to buff it. Besides, along with the stupid suggest of applying the wax by hand Zymol ALSO tell you not to let it go hard!!


ooo err ! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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