WR1 Owners Club

I hope you had the correct torque setting on that drill...?

Tiddler wrote:I hope you had the correct torque setting on that drill...?

Surprisingly, for an "electrical torquewrench"... it doesn't have a torque setting.
So we just do them up and then use a classic torquewrench to thighten correctly.

Those things are also too brutal (300Nm this one). So I don't like purely thightening with the machine.

Very practical though. I'd recommend one any time.

The Swede wrote:

Tiddler wrote:I hope you had the correct torque setting on that drill...?

Surprisingly, for an "electrical torquewrench"... it doesn't have a torque setting.
So we just do them up and then use a classic torquewrench to thighten correctly.

Those things are also too brutal (300Nm this one). So I don't like purely thightening with the machine.

Very practical though. I'd recommend one any time.

You can get accurate torque setting drills. I use them for cabinet making to get the correct depth setting but the good ones I have are £400-600.

The reason I asked (in seriousness) is that these tools can shear the bolts... I have tested these on an M20 bolt and sheared the hex head off one!!

Tiddler wrote:You can get accurate torque setting drills. I use them for cabinet making to get the correct depth setting but the good ones I have are £400-600.

The reason I asked (in seriousness) is that these tools can shear the bolts... I have tested these on an M20 bolt and sheared the hex head off one!!

This isn't a drill, it simply acts as wrench. I can imagine they can shear off bolts though, hence why we're always careful when using it.

At £90 or something, it is also a bit cheaper than a 600 quid drill.

Besides, Stu' will no doubt remind me in a few hours about the fact that buying a drill would be a complete waste for someone with my DIY skills...
He should remember I DO have a drill though

You park outside for an evening...






At home.





Our street





The main road...

Finally had the time to film having fun.

Was pretty careful though as I was on polished ice and my son was filming.

Sorry the clips are so short, it was too cold to leave junior outside for more than a minute really without gloves.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU_iIEhNMy0


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me9YScuR5JI

Looks fun...

With the Evo, does it have a DCCD thing same as WR1? I.E, can you shift most of the power to the rear - I'm assuming so watching that...

Just reminded me on myself trying to get out of my street last week

MaverickUK82 wrote:Looks fun...

With the Evo, does it have a DCCD thing same as WR1? I.E, can you shift most of the power to the rear - I'm assuming so watching that...

No, the diffs on the Evo is electronic and locks and unlocks depending on steering angle and acceleration.

I always drove all scoobs with diffs fully locked though. I do not like RWD cr@p and tend to "force" the car a bit when I drive.

Here, we're on ice all the time (the roads are exactly the same, except that the coppers will nail you if you starts doing donuts). You don't need RWD. I can do this with a fcucking SKoda Octavia 1.4 TSI

Good job there are no flammable liquid trailers nearby

Tiddler wrote:Good job there are no flammable liquid trailers nearby

Why do you think I was so careful?

Don't think these were ever posted here. Meeting up with caveman (not sure he's still around on the forum). Only WR1 ever to be seen in its best habitat. Seinajoki, Finland. Where winters last 8 months











Bit of ice stuck to the nose.

How do the FQ's compare against the WR1?

WR1 wrote:How do the FQ's compare against the WR1?

Gosh, think I must have put that here a few times.

In brief, had the Scoob 3 years (and did approx 40000 miles) and now had the Evo for 6 years.

The cars are very different.

What I loved with the scoob, was its nice burble, it felt built like a rock and it has a nice owner's club

Issues I had was that the rear was really very cramped (especially if I had guests visiting in Finland and we wanted to go skiing), no Xenon lights, hard to modify without bolting on new hardware, useless manual intercoolerspray and, mainly... the handling on ice and snow is horrible.
The self blocking diffs are just way too slow to react. They are perfect for tarmac roads: The wheels start to lose grip, the diffs lock and you're OK. Generally, between the slide starting and the diffs blocking, the car slides about 2 feet sideways. When you drive on pure ice at pace, by the time the diffs lock, you are at a 90° angle and pointing at a snow wall... keep your foot down and you'll hit it at Mach 1
The Evo's active central diff works much faster and is much more progressive. It allows you to control the car much better at high speed on ice and snow.

The Evo meanwhile provided the better headlights and 5" more legroom.

Being a die hard rally-fan, and since the car is purely a fun car, I also loved the brutality of the Evo IX. The scoob is a good daily, but does not have this "lose concentration and I'll kill you straight away". Since I drive a big lump of a daily car, I wanted the brutality of the Evo.

Finally, my scoob was not modified and we had issues with it when it got cold. Any time under -30°C and the ECU lost the plot trying to wind the boost down to zero.
When I got the Evo, the former engine-builder of Ralliart worked on it to "cold proof it". Meanwhile he found another 80 horses...


If I had the money, I'd have both.