FAQ
Search
At the moment i have- RCM INDUCTION KIT
TURBO BACK DECAT TO ORIGINAL BACK BOX
RE MAP BY DUNCAN
thanks
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 27 guests
| |||||
400 BHP
Moderators: WR 1mposter, The Swede, Megaman, danr55, WR1 Bro, Moderators
25 posts
• Page 1 of 1
400 BHP
Hi guys, Ime looking to get 400bhp from my wr1. Can anybody tell me what i need to achive this and cost
At the moment i have- RCM INDUCTION KIT TURBO BACK DECAT TO ORIGINAL BACK BOX RE MAP BY DUNCAN thanks
all depends on your budget mate
this can cost you any thing from 3k to 6 k .. Youll need rcm 400/ 420 turbo or sc billet range inc water and oil feed kit 800 cc injectors .. 650cc could max out 3" decat system inc headders uprated plugs other options would be front mount intercooler, modifed oil pump ecu etc list goes on mate .. Ime sure Megaman will advise you .. his just done this to his ..
As Rocko said Jamie, have a PM word with Mega, I went out in his last weekend and it is absolutely awesome although I think he is running at 450-460bhp at the moment?!? He had the mechanical work done first and shopped around for parts.... then got it mapped by Duncan saved himself a few £k I understand but doing it that way wasn't without its problems which he got sorted in the end....
have to be very careful if you get work done by different people as there is the possibility that when there is a problem they will blame others for the fault and you have to spend time proving what actually happened!! Good luck, if I were you whatever route you take I would "try" to get it all done by 1 place/person so there is no blaming others if it goes wrong slightly! Have a word with Martin though, it is usually good to hear from someone that has only just had it done.
hmm, from my understanding, you don't need too much:
SC40 turbo - £950 Fuel Pressure Regulator - £100-200 3" exhaust - £500 Uprated Panel Filter - £40 Remap - £550 You don't necessarily need new injectors - I read of someone having a remap up to 400bhp with 550cc STi pinks, and them running at 96%, which is obviously a bit close to maxed out!! but with a fuel pressure regulator, it took a fair bit of strain off them. also, after taking advice, 400bhp seems a good number, as the standard airbox and top mount intercooler are good for 400-420BHP, and the internals 430ish... I am looking at 400BHP in the future, and having done a fair bit of research, the mods I have listed above is what I will be going for.
That turbo sounds dirt cheap!
Peace of mind though I'd go with new injectors. Front intercooler and new fuel pump. 424
Sorry mate I don't see you getting 400bhp with that spec list ! Plus SC40 turbo is £1140...dreaded vat ! 2007 BMW M5
2004 Petter Solberg STi
ah, VAT... do'h!!
I have seen optimistic and pessimistic bhp quotes on the subject ranging from 380 to 400, depending on the mapper, exhaust type, etc. anywhere around there would be fine with me! a nice sensible hike for a few thousand is what I was looking for.
A fmic will help achieve 400bhp, Our car was around 380bhp with a tmic, but with a APS fmic it went up to 410bhp 2007 BMW M5
2004 Petter Solberg STi
The problem is every tuning house will try to sell you a solution that makes them the most commission not what the best solution is for you. Its very hard to spec up the best solution too as there are several ways to achieve the power goal via different ways.
I tried to do things on the cheap and ended up paying for it in the end. If I was starting a fresh I would go to one of the bigger companies and get the whole solution from one provider to avoid the issues I had where they blame the other party involved etc. Anyway you need to pick a power level to go for, ive been told under 450bhp is fairly safe if you dont hit the limiter. More than that and you will need to uprate the engine internals and most people seem to go 2.1 stroker and an uprated engine good for 550bhp. My Car Spec Now: GT2 Spec Tubular Headers Heat Wrapping 3 Bolt Flow Matched UpPipe 3" Full RCM Exhaust System With Silenced Centre Section 650CC Injectors Perrin Induction Kit Perrin Silicone Inlet Tract SC46 Billet Turbo HDI Front Mount Intercooler Exedy Clutch Oil Breather Kit New 255 wallborough fuel pump NGK7 B's AP Racing 355mm Brake Kit Front & Rear Whiteline Front and Rear Strut Brace Whiteline Front and Rear Anti Roll Bars New Droplinks Remaps via Duncan Race Dynamix Whats left for me to do? Coilovers + Anti Lift Kit Gauges to see my oil temps when being thrashed Oil cooler if gauges show my temps too high regularly Possibly Syvecs ECU as it has a lot more safety features built in to limit power when things aren't running quite right instead of letting engine go bang. Power has been pulled back purposely from 470 to 440 for my own peace of mind due to this 450 limit the various tuners seem to talk about. Currently waiting to put some of my old bits left over from my upgrade stages up for sale when i get chance if you are interested in any of them. 550cc injectors standard prodrive 2.5inch exhaust system top mount sti intercooler RCM Induction Kit Blue Silicone Inlet Tract Standard WR1 Turbo TD05 20G Turbo (420BHP Proved) I started with a 380bhp goal then made the mistake of going in a 420bhp car and had to have something as quick if not quicker which is what i did. 
Nice work matey...I think I will be following in your footstpes in the summer. Although I may go for a slightly different turbo and keep the TMIC for now.
How does it drive with all the work?
Goes like f**k mate!!
Really smooth drive andy, and more economical on longer journeys as the std turbo is on slight boost at 80mph where as this one is just off in 6th. Comes in about 300-400rpm later than standard turbo then its time to hold on
With regards to the power levels, lots of people saying STIs are out there inc WR1's running 500+bhp with standard internals, others are saying they have gone bang in the past so the 440 level seems a safeish level for me. Worst case scenario engine goes bang and I have to get a bigger better one... shit happens
Glad to see some proper info on your build Martin.
How about some engine bay picks of the induction, FMIC etc? Have you got rolling road graphs too?
Yup agree completely...like anything it might break next week, it might break next year...you just never know. Staying within the 450 area and not going too mental is the right thing to do for sure. Its not spanked everywhere and given massive amounts of abuse...good to hear you finally went for it. Just out of interest who did the work for you? Cause sure as hell you know how to plug in an ethernet cable and clear out registry's n stuff, but getting your hands covered in oil? Me thinks not!!
I heard that John Mc Tiddler (Dogging Expert) did the spanner work?
Engine bay has never been cleaned since I got the car and is a disgrace really. Too paranoid about wetting something that shouldnt be wet and buggering the car up. Can take some snaps if you like though. FMIC is a small HDI one that sits nicely behind the front mesh - most of the bigger ones I was told need you to lose the mesh or hack away a lot of bumper which i didnt want to do. Plus the cost difference of course. Will take pics of this for ya though too. Videos and graph below. Power graph looks strange as the torque levels out quite early but the car certainly doesnt lose any pull until the redline.
Rolling road video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF8pegrq59Y Rolling road graph: 
With regards to who I used, I had a fairly bad experience with it all to be honest. I got most of the parts from Harvey in Darlington who is big on Scoobynet. When I ordered the bits he said he would fit them and asked me which mapper i would like to use as he couldnt do mapping. So I picked Dynamix as he has previously mapped my car. After getting the parts fit we had a surge issue where Duncan blamed some of Harveys work and Harvey blamed the mapper. To cut a long story short I ended up going to Scoobyclinic to get the issue resolved on the rolling road which Harvey was invited to attend but ignored and chose not to do so. This proved some of his kit was to blame but he still wouldnt take responsibility for any of his work or parts and hung up on me a couple of times and got nasty. Not a very nice man to deal with at all so certainly wouldnt recommend him to anyone. Harveys only solution was for me to use his mapper Bob Rawle who was not offered to me at the time I ordered the bits from him and asked him to do the whole job. He swore blind a new mapper could solve the issue easily and wanted a premium for the pleasure. In order to test this theory I mailed two further mappers independently who both rated Dynamix work and said that the issue can only be partially solved with mapping but some of Harveys parts were the main cause. So upon hearing this I thought id go to a place that has bits in stock like Scoobyclinic, spend a day getting parts changed and the car mapped on the rolling road until the issue was cured. This was expensive but got the issues resolved in the end. I shopped around and found a lot of places that would sell the parts but wouldn't put them together offering the full package. The few places that did had hugely differing prices for what seem to be very similar hardware. I didnt go with the cheapest picking harvey, he was about middle for cost. RCM wanted four times the price of the cheapest for the solution and had months of waiting list. CPA down south were slightly cheaper but have a rep for suddenly hiking the price mid-work. Whilst Scoobyclinic didnt look the best place to get work done, they pulled together and got me out of a hole. I watched the work they did all day on my car which seemed to go okay so id have to recommend them for this.
In fourth gear from low revs, on a flat road, at what revs does your car hit 1bar of boost?
That would require a Defi to verify.... on Mega's wish list I believe
It "pulls like fook" from low down though... When he took me out but I was too busy watching the speedo which moved like a fookin rev counter!!
I checked the tyre pressures
Sounds like an awesome machine. Chasing figures is a mugs game IMHO. Setting out to build a car that is nice to drive is should be the number one goal.
Lets get a chip supper sorted soon.
Yeah, I guess thats the good and bad side of all this. We all know pretty vaguely what parts we should buy to acheive our goals, but then most of us need somebody to fit them and do the work - especially mapping. Adding up the component costs, and comparing with a complete 'turnkey' solution from a reputable garage can sometimes be hard to justify...but when you try do it yourself and something like this happens I guess all the potential savings go out of the window and you end up spending more than you would of done in the first place - except RCM who are just bonkers to begin with - Prodrive would be cheaper in comparison! Its the same in my work...people try to get you to give them a line item by line item quote and then its hard to justify your expertise and knowledge as a cost item. But then they come back begging you to sort the issues when they try it themselves and fail or somethign doesn't work quite right. Shame you were let down by a supplier despite having sound backup as to what the issues were. Glad it all worked out in the end and now you are gonna need those AP's to stop the damn thing!! Was looking at the MD321t but that SC46 looks quite temping right now too! Will be back over at the end of July to get the work done and do the scooby weekender - along with a quick visit to the ring on route!! Chish n fips on me it is!!
 
Venue this time? New Thread Time....
Glad to heard you got all sorted in the End mate ...
i'me sure your well happy with it now .. good power there
| ||
25 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Who is online |
||